As the comedian duo voiced back in 1986, “Rabbits are not only valuable fur, but also three or four kilograms of dietary, easily digestible meat.” But raising them is not so easy, and this requires comfortable and high-quality rabbit hutches. Of course, you can buy them, the cost of used and simple new ones is 1.5...3 thousand rubles, new two-three-tier, elite ones - from 5 thousand and above. But it’s better and cheaper to do it yourself, focusing on the living conditions of the animals and the dimensions of the selected breed.
Types of cages for rabbits
Rabbit cages are classified according to the following criteria:
- Type of rabbits. Large and small breeds, adults, pregnant females and those who have recently given birth, young animals kept for separate living.
- Method of operation. Stationary, portable. Outdoors, indoors.
- Material. Wood, metal, plastic.
In one household it is permissible to have several different types of cages for rabbits, each of which serves its purpose. According to their design, cells are divided into single-tier, two-tier, and three-tier. The choice depends on the available space. Despite the differences in designs and parameters, there are general manufacturing rules that have been proven in practice. It is recommended to adhere to them.
Hut for fawning
In such a house, chambers for queen cells are usually placed on the side. The walls must be solid so that there is no draft. If the enclosure will be placed indoors, then you need to choose a place without ventilation. When the house is placed on the street, it must be insulated.
The queen cell should be made removable so that, if necessary, it can be moved to another enclosure. The camera must be kept dry at all times. It is necessary to periodically lay fresh hay in it. You should not use sawdust for bedding, as small parts of it can get into the rabbits' noses.
When the female brings her babies in winter, you need to put a heating pad with warm water in the queen cell. You can also use a regular incandescent lamp for heating. It must be on all the time. With such heating, you need to take care of fire safety.
Some breeders lay a cable from the “warm floor” system in the queen cell. The cable must be placed intact in the enclosure; there should be no solders on it. Using this method, you can regulate the temperature in the box yourself.
DIY rabbit cage construction
The creation of structures begins with the selection of materials. The basis is wooden blocks treated with antiseptics to avoid damage to the wood. In addition to the frame, you should take care of the walls, floor, ceiling, and doors. For individual parts of the structure, appropriate material is selected.
To build a rabbit cage you will need:
- bars;
- boards;
- plywood;
- net;
- wooden slats;
- metal wire;
- slate;
- plastic pallets;
- door bolts;
- loops;
- fasteners;
- drinking bottles.
Internal partitions are made from sheets of plywood, using its qualities such as strength and moisture resistance. Chipboard is an unsuitable material because it absorbs moisture and breaks down due to swelling.
Before installation, the wooden parts are sanded and sanded. Do not leave sharp edges so that animals do not get hurt on them. It is advisable to cover the protruding parts with iron. The height of the legs depends on the location: when installed outdoors, their size is from 80 cm, and indoors they are half as low. The diameter of the cells should be no more than 2x2 cm. When installing rabbit cages in an open space, the use of roofing materials is necessary. It is undesirable to make the roof metal, since its strong heating in hot weather can lead to thermal shock.
Useful tips for building a rabbitry
Not all novice craftsmen know how to make a cage for rabbits, taking into account all the nuances, so mistakes are possible when making the structure.
For example, if you save material, this will lead to crowding, which negatively affects the health and reproduction of rabbits.
The uterine or nesting compartment must be made stationary. Any nooks and crannies can provoke the death of baby rabbits as a result of a stampede, as the female becomes frightened.
But when depositing young animals, it is recommended to use a cage with a stationary nook for rabbits. A small loophole in a compartment measuring 12x12 cm will allow the rabbits to get through there, while the female will not be able to get through and will not be able to be with them all the time. In the question of how to make rabbit cages, this option allows you to reduce the stress of the procedure for weaning offspring from a female rabbit.
Stages of building a rabbit cage
The production of cages for rabbits occurs in stages. First, the prepared bars are treated with an antiseptic. This prevents the appearance of rot on the tree and the penetration of harmful microorganisms. The requirements for the antiseptic are environmental friendliness, the absence of a large amount of chlorine, so as not to expose pets to harmful chemicals. This treatment increases the service life of wooden products.
The processed timber is cut into parts: four one and a half meters long, four 55 cm each, two 70 cm each. Then the planks are connected in such a way that two identical rectangular figures with sides of 1.5 and 0.55 m are obtained. After connecting with the beams, a box is obtained , which is the basis of the cage for keeping rabbits. Dimensions may vary depending on design.
Then you should start building the floor. It can be made from different materials, which have their own advantages and disadvantages: metal profiles, mesh, slats. A high-quality floor will be obtained by combining. For example, there is a metal profile below, and a mesh on top. The profile will prevent the mesh from deforming, which increases service life. Such a floor is not subject to rotting, like wood, but it faces another danger - metal corrosion. In addition, a metal floor is cold for rabbits to live in, while a wooden floor creates a more natural environment for them.
Expert opinion
Dobryshev Sergey Anatolievich
Professional rabbit breeder and hare breeder with 30 years of experience
If you intend to place a queen cell for grown-up rabbits in a cage with female rabbits, a part 50-70 cm wide should be left on the floor with a mesh for the construction of a wooden covering. The floor is secured with nails and screws.
Material for walls - boards, plywood, mesh. The back part is made of boards. For the front, a mesh is used. This allows you to observe the behavior of your pets. Plywood is suitable for the side parts. The roof is also made of waterproof plywood, but if the design provides for its tilting, then it is necessary to attach hinges. They are screwed to the timber, and then the plywood is installed. The entire structure is placed on legs about a meter high. The last stage is the installation of feeders and drinkers.
Installation of the floor in the rabbitry
You can use different materials to install the floor.
Floor in the rabbitry Source ytimg.com
Metal profile floor
This option is characterized by a long service life and ease of maintenance. The disadvantage of this design is the difficulty in its manufacture. Firstly, you will have to make such a grid yourself. Secondly, special attention to the cells, which must be very small so that the rabbits’ legs do not fall through.
Fine mesh floor
Fine mesh is easy to install and easy to maintain afterwards. But it may break. The design and long service life are no different. Typically, the service life is directly related to the quality of welding.
Wood slatted floor
Wooden slats – environmental friendliness and affordability in one. They are easy to install. But if the material is not initially processed properly, then rabbits can get splinters in their paws. Another drawback is the short service life. Soon such a floor will begin to rot and will need to be replaced.
You can combine these options.
Important! It is not advisable to use a non-mesh floor in the main compartment. This is due to the fact that waste products will penetrate through the holes and accumulate in the pan.
Instructions for building a rabbit cage yourself
The construction of a rabbit cage begins with a drawing. The optimal options are selected depending on the breed, age, and number of animals raised. The choice of materials depends on the following criteria: strength, resistance to mechanical stress, resistance to moisture.
We should not forget that rabbits belong to the order of rodents and can significantly damage wood. The materials used must not evaporate harmful substances. Drafts are unacceptable, but there must be air circulation, which is provided by micropores in the walls. All fittings used must be of high quality and protected against corrosion.
Construction begins with the construction of a frame to which a metal mesh and sheets of plywood for the walls are attached. Arrangement of the floor is a crucial moment. The best option is replaceable structures. They are easy to remove, clean and reinstall. In case of severe damage, they can be replaced with new ones. Metal mesh is more convenient to clean, but it provokes dermatitis, so wooden slats are preferable.
The roof of the rabbit cage is also a canopy that protects from precipitation and ultraviolet rays. You can make additional opening doors in it. The roof has a slight slope. In addition to plywood, roofing materials can include tiles and slate. The metal option is not suitable, since in hot weather this will lead to strong heating inside.
The finished cage is installed outdoors or indoors, depending on weather conditions. In cold weather, insulation is carried out by upholstering the cell walls with sealants: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, stitched mats. Rabbit hutches require regular maintenance.
Recommendations for placing a rabbitry
It is important not only to understand how to make a rabbit cage, but also to know where to place it. When choosing a place on the street where the rabbitry will be installed, you need to consider several important factors:
- Rabbits are distinguished by increased sensitivity to drafts. Therefore, the place should be chosen such that the rabbit’s house is out of reach of the winds.
- However, greenhouse conditions are not suitable either. An important point in keeping any pets, including rabbits, is high-quality ventilation. If this condition is not met, pathogenic organisms in the feces will begin to actively multiply and negatively affect the condition of the rabbits.
- The location should be dry, away from bodies of water. This is due to the fact that the upper limit of moisture tolerated by these animals is 75%. An indicator higher is fraught with consequences - pets will begin to sneeze and get sick.
- Homemade rabbit cages should be installed in the shade under trees. Avoid direct exposure to sunlight.
- During the winter cold, the rabbit's house is insulated. The temperature inside the cells must be maintained constant. It is not allowed to decrease below +10 degrees. The upper temperature is +20 degrees.
The rabbitry is installed in the shade, direct sunlight is excluded Source fermok.ru
Cold climatic conditions require the location of the rabbitry in a special barn or other building. Which also has a number of specific requirements.
- The windows of the shed should face south or southeast. This way the animals will be able to receive enough light and warming sunlight.
- It is important that additional lamps and heaters are installed in the room so that in winter the animals avoid a lack of heat and light.
- The walls must be plastered. This will prevent excess moisture from penetrating into the room itself.
- A constant supply of air is ensured to the cells.
When arranging the cells, it is necessary to take into account that they must be located from the ground at a certain height. This saves you from rodent attacks.
DIY rabbit cages: drawings, dimensions
When doing serious business, one cell is not enough. A whole complex of structures will be required, for each of which a separate drawing must be drawn up. The appearance of cages for rabbits largely depends on imagination and financial capabilities, but there are size limits that are not recommended to be violated. The height of the room should not be less than 45 cm. For adults, the optimal area is 150x70 cm. It is necessary to provide a place where the animals can walk.
The front wall is made a few centimeters higher than the back. Individual sections can be connected by small manholes. The hinged lid will provide additional convenience during maintenance. Regardless of the breed being raised, we must not forget that the animals must have sufficient space for movement. Their deficiency will lead to obesity and decreased fertility. In outdoor cages you can make holes into a fenced pen.
You can get ideas for rabbit cages by browsing the relevant websites. If you want to draw up your own drawing, you can do this on graph paper or by using special programs and printing the result.
Why is the popularity of rabbit farming declining?
There are several reasons for this phenomenon, the most important ones should be mentioned.
- Increasing the well-being of our compatriots. You need to understand that previously, rabbits were bred in villages or dachas not out of great love for animal husbandry, but in order to improve the standard of living. Rabbit farmers, in addition to meat, brought income from skins, from which winter hats, fur coats, etc. were massively sewn. Today no one wears such hats, so handing over skins is a big problem. Currently, young people prefer to buy meat in a store rather than breed animals themselves.
Breeding rabbits requires not only knowledge, but also a lot of work
- Rabbit breeding is one of the most risky activities; in the event of an epidemic, the entire livestock dies within a day. Meat is unsuitable for consumption and must be disposed of at special landfills. A veterinarian must live nearby, carry out periodic inspections of the livestock in a timely manner and carry out all vaccinations. If there is a veterinary hospital only in the regional center, then it is better not to breed rabbits.
Rabbits are too susceptible to disease
We will not list other factors hindering the massive development of rabbit breeding, but there are quite a few of them. But even those mentioned should force potential rabbit breeders to carefully weigh their options against practical conditions.
Rabbit cage sizes
Drawings of cages for rabbits with dimensions: examples
The most common are double structures with separate sections. One section houses the adults, and the other contains the queen cell. Other types include cells with one section, three sections, and group ones. There are original designs.
Drawing up a drawing, algorithm of actions
First you need to draw up a drawing in one plane. It will become clear how much space the structure will take up, and if necessary, make adjustments.
An axonometric drawing will make the future home more visual.
Features of winter keeping rabbits
Rabbits, unlike poultry, can tolerate sub-zero temperatures quite easily, however, they need to be provided with comfortable conditions to prevent frostbite and colds. With proper insulation, the cage does not need to be moved into the utility room even at a temperature of -20 °C.
When insulating, thermal insulation material is placed between the walls of the cage
When keeping rabbits in winter, you should adhere to the following recommendations:
- With constant exposure to low temperatures, rabbits' fertility decreases and their reproductive functions deteriorate. To reduce the effects of cold, you will need to fully insulate the cells. For this, modern heat insulators with a thickness of 3 cm or more are used, which are placed in the space between the walls of the cage;
- if there is no extra money, then natural materials that can be prepared in the summer are suitable as insulation. These include: moss, foliage of trees and shrubs, pine needles, thin branches. The material collected in sufficient quantities should be thoroughly dried in the shade. A dry heat insulator is placed between the walls of the cage using a similar principle;
- Each separate section of the cage must have a compartment fenced off from the main part. It is made according to the box principle, when the frame is sheathed using boards or plywood. To enter the compartment, a cut is used in one of the walls;
- to avoid a decrease in reproductive functions, a lamp with artificial lighting should be provided in each cage. This will allow for an increase in daylight hours, which will have a beneficial effect on the fertility and activity of the animal. If necessary, a heating cable is laid into the cage and connected to the back wall or queen cell;
- Rabbits' food in winter should be high in calories with a high content of concentrated and roughage. The main sources of vitamins and minerals are carrots and beets. It is allowed to feed rabbits with boiled potatoes.
Video: recommendations for keeping rabbits outdoors
The process of making cells is simple and will not cause any particular difficulties even for people who have rarely used a hacksaw or a screwdriver. The general principle of assembly is easy to understand after studying just a couple of instructions. The main thing is to correctly calculate the size and draw up a drawing of the cell - this will help to avoid most of the mistakes that beginners make.
- Author: Vitaly Varlamov
Hello. My name is Vitaliy. Area of professional activity: technical means of automation and design technologies. Rate this article:
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Do-it-yourself rabbit cage: photo examples, types of designs
There are significant differences between rabbit hutches. If you want to make it yourself, you can choose from existing designs.
Simple one-story
Two-story
With a place to walk
Made of wood with metal mesh
How to choose a grid
Rabbit netting is one of the main expenses of a new farmer. Choosing a mesh for making a “house” is not easy. Here are the basic requirements that must be met:
- The strength of the material from which the mesh is made;
- Small cell size;
- The mesh must be securely fastened;
- It is advisable that metal fittings are not used for fastening.
Important! Chain-linking is not used to make a roof, because even the smallest cells will let precipitation in.
The mesh is used not only for finishing walls and fencing enclosures, but also for making floors. Thanks to the mesh floor, droppings will easily fall through the cells, making cleaning much easier.
It is better to buy cage mesh in specialized stores for livestock breeders and farmers.
Cage for adult rabbits
For adults, two-tier and three-tier cages are suitable. This significantly saves the area allocated for rabbit breeding. Plywood partitions divide the interior into areas for eating and relaxing.
The family home consists of three sections. A breeding male with good characteristics is placed in the middle, and healthy females suitable for mating are placed in the side compartments. Manholes are made between the compartments.
The construction of three-section cells has its own peculiarities. The frame is assembled from timber, and boards are used on the outside. On the inside, plywood is preferred. The back wall is made of boards, and a mesh is mounted in front. The compartments for females have an attic where she can climb using a special board. This is necessary for the rabbits to rest from maternal duties. Otherwise, they may develop aggression, leading to the death of newborns. This option is suitable for breeding purebred rodents, allowing you to sort individuals and monitor the onset and progress of pregnancy.
A separate room for young animals is built with minimal dimensions. You can immediately move strong rabbits into a room for adults.
Materials and tools
Before you begin choosing a suitable material, you should develop a detailed drawing of such a project. Already-designed drawings of cages for rabbits are freely available on the Internet. A ready-made plan will allow you to accurately calculate the required volumes of material and not miss significant nuances in assembling the structure.
Rabbit in a cage
When preparing suitable materials, you should also take into account the fact that rabbits are rodents by nature. They easily damage the components of a fragile structure. Therefore, excessive savings here can lead to the fact that within a month or two the enclosure will have to be repaired or completely changed.
It is recommended to use the following materials in your work:
- wooden products: long beams, slats, boards;
- plywood;
- slate slabs;
- fine-grained mesh;
- nails, screws or staples to secure all elements.
There are also a number of important points that will significantly increase the life of the structure and will be useful for living creatures:
- Many manufacturers make the roof from metal sheets. This approach is fundamentally wrong. In the summer heat, the iron gets very hot, and excessive heat worsens the rabbits’ well-being. It is better to take slate, tiles or ordinary boards covered with roofing felt.
- All wooden elements inside the enclosure should be sheathed with tin. Otherwise, the rabbit will sharpen its teeth on them and quickly render them unusable.
- The mesh for the rabbitry is taken with hole sizes of 25x25 mm. Such material will be convenient for the rodent to move, but will not allow it to escape.
- Additionally, it is recommended to lay a sheet of plywood on the floor. This coating will prevent health problems for your rodent's paws. In addition, after a certain time it is enough to simply remove it, wash it thoroughly, dry it and can be reused.
It is also not recommended to use metal corners and cross members as the basis of the frame. In winter, they can freeze, which will reduce the temperature inside the rabbitry. But the advantage of such elements is their strength.
Based on the selected materials, the necessary tool is selected. The minimum set in this regard includes:
- hacksaw;
- construction tape;
- hammer;
- metal scissors;
- sandpaper;
- screwdriver;
- plane;
- pliers.
When using metal elements, you may also need a drill and welding machine.
Do-it-yourself rabbit cage: step-by-step instructions for the production of work with photo examples
DIY rabbit hutches have the great advantage of allowing you to take your specific circumstances into account. For example, we can consider the construction of a two-section cage.
Step 1. Treat the bars with an antiseptic.
Step 2. Cut the timber into parts of the required size in accordance with the requirements of the drawing.
Step 3. Connect the parts so that you get rectangular shapes.
Step 4. Assemble a frame from them.
Step 5. Start installing the floor.
Step 6. Start upholstering the walls. The back one is made of boards treated with an antiseptic, and the front one is made of mesh.
Step 7. Cover the inside of the walls with plywood.
Step 8. Build the roof.
Step 9. Install planks on which movement is possible.
Step 10. Place an excrement tray at the bottom.
Step 11. Place the cage on supports.
Step 12. Place feeders and drinkers inside.
House for young animals
A cage for a domestic rabbit should accommodate from 10 to 20 animals at a time. The walls need to be made 30-40 cm high. The offspring can be kept there for up to 5 months. The cage should be raised from the floor surface by 70-80 centimeters.
You need to put a net on the floor to prevent kids from chewing on the wood. You can make the entire floor from mesh, but such a house will have to be placed in a warm room. With a mesh floor, the house will be constantly ventilated, and feces will not accumulate there, which will help protect animals from various diseases.
Hay can be used for insulation. The layer thickness should be from 15 to 20 millimeters. Artificial bedding will have a bad effect on the young animals, and therefore they may get sick. It's worth giving up.
Do-it-yourself two- or three-tier cage for rabbits: step-by-step instructions with photo examples
To make a rabbit cage you will need some materials. The frame is made of timber, the ribs of which are located inside, sheathed with a metal corner to protect the wood from the sharp teeth of rodents.
Assemble the sides. The parts are fastened with corners using self-tapping screws.
From the edge, measure the distance corresponding to the door, and attach the partition to give strength. The same actions are repeated on the opposite side.
Between the door openings, 2 bars are mounted in the shape of the Latin letter “V”. This is where the feeder will be located.
Having assembled two such partitions, they are connected with pieces of bars using reinforced corners. The result is a finished frame.
Now it's time to start installing the bottom. A good option is to use wooden slats.
The gaps between them should be of such a size that the rabbit's paw cannot get stuck there.
The protruding parts must be cut off.
Cover the first tier with a sheet of metal and fix the stop for installing the second floor.
The third tier is also installed.
Now it's time to install the doors. Loops are used for this.
Before moving in it is necessary to carry out disinfection.
Briefly about the main thing
Even for inexperienced craftsmen, there will be no problems with the question of how to make a cage for rabbits if you strictly follow all the instructions and recommendations.
To build a rabbitry, the dimensions of the future structure are first determined. It is advisable to start work by completing a drawing. Then a timber frame is constructed.
The next stage is the design of the floor. It can be made of metal profile, fine mesh cage or wooden slats.
After this, the plywood walls of the cage are made. The work is completed by decorating the roof and installing a tray where waste from the cage will fall.
A drinking bowl, feeder and hay barn are installed in the finished cage.
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Cages for rabbits in two tiers
The construction of a two-tier cage is not much different from a single-tier one. The height is 2-2.5 m, width – 1.4 m. The dimensions can be changed, but within small limits.
How to make a two-tier rabbit cage with your own hands: nuances
When designing, it is necessary to provide for nuances that will make the premises reliable and make caring for animals easier:
- It is recommended to use hinged doors in the rear wall or roof.
- Don't skimp on fasteners.
- To prevent rabbits from injuring themselves, the edges of the mesh and fasteners should be carefully sealed.
- Installing a retractable tray will make cleaning easier, where feces will fall through the mesh on the floor and urine will flow.
- The lock, which is a piece of wood rotating on a nail, is unreliable. A better option is hooks or latches.
- To prevent rabbits from gnawing the partition, the edges of the openings should be lined with tin.
- The roofs of each of the tiers can be lined with linoleum.
Animal conditions
These rodents are unpretentious in nature, quite mobile, and live in ordinary earthen burrows. However, for both dwarf domestic and industrial (meat, skin) breeds, excessive mobility is not needed, so the cages are made with serious space restrictions.
Modern French rabbit farm
Traditional rabbitry in Spain
Before choosing a specific product, or rather, the size of the future homemade product, you need to consider:
- pet size. Dwarf breeds weigh about a kilogram (or less), the largest (White Giant, German Giant, Giant Ram) weigh 12 kilograms or more. The dimensions of their body, respectively, are from 10...12 to 70 cm. The rabbit must fit freely in the cage, be able to turn around in it, and move in small leaps. That is, the minimum width should be equal to the length of the body, and the length should be no less than three to four times the length of the body. It is believed that for an average-sized rabbit the area should be at least 0.2...0.3 square meters for young animals and approximately 0.5...1 sq.m. for an adult animal;
- the number of pets in the cage and their age. For queens with babies, less space is required than for fattened young animals, but in any case, the minimum cage sizes are determined by the largest of the animals;
- type of content – cellular, semi-free, free. Considering that the article is about cells, we are considering cellular maintenance - it reduces the risk of uncontrolled reproduction, degeneration due to inbreeding, disease and death of animals;
- method of keeping - outdoors, under a canopy, indoors, combined;
Two-tier cages for keeping in a ventilated barn. Please note that for meat breeds the cage sizes are smaller!
- arrangement of cages - separately for each animal, with grouping - a row, several tiers, the so-called shed, that is, a group of cages under a common canopy;
- availability and cost of building materials.
To keep decorative breeds, cages are often purchased or made from scrap materials. To keep meat-hide and downy breeds, products are assembled in batches for the entire population of rabbits, taking into account the increase in quantity. It is advisable to breed downy and valuable fur breeds under a canopy to preserve the quality of the skin.
Making your own rabbit cage using the Mikhailov method
Rabbit cages built using the Mikhailov method are multi-tiered mini-farms. The structure consists of several tiers, each of which serves as the basis for the next. The bottom is made of slatted lattice, which ensures that manure falls into a special container. The walking compartment is equipped with feeders and drinking bowls. Food and water are replenished as needed.
The main advantage of mini-farms is minimal human participation in the production process, which ensures the absence of stress for shy animals.
Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina
This structure increases the efficiency of raising rabbits. The structure consists of three tiers. The higher ones are shifted relative to the lower ones by the width of the grid. There are two cells on each floor. The feeder is a tilting tray, which makes it possible to add food without opening the door.
This design is very popular.
Aviaries
Animals can also be kept in enclosures. The main advantage of these structures is that rabbits in the enclosure live almost the same way as in nature. Here are the main features of the enclosures:
- Animals have a lot of free space;
- There is no need for automatic feeders;
- Rabbit droppings mixed with grass and soil provide additional insulation;
- You can clean the enclosure no more often than once a quarter.
Aviary for rabbits
An aviary is, in fact, not even a cage, but just a place fenced with a chain-link mesh. But, despite its many advantages, the enclosure also has a serious drawback: in enclosure conditions, animals can quickly become infected with dangerous infections from each other. However, many farmers consider an enclosure to be the most convenient home for furry animals. In order to make an enclosure, it is not necessary to search the Internet for drawings and diagrams; it is enough to drive pegs around the perimeter of the area and cover the area where the animals are kept with a strong mesh with small cells. But still, sheds for rabbits are better than enclosures, especially in regions with cold climates.
Cages for dwarf rabbits: step-by-step instructions
Cages for dwarf rabbits do not require large material costs. The weight of a dwarf rabbit is small, so the house for it should be appropriate.
Step 1. Assemble a frame 1 m long, 70 cm wide, 55-70 cm high.
Step 2. Nail wooden slats to the bottom or install a metal mesh.
Step 3. Make the walls. Cut a hole in one of them for the door.
Step 4. Place the door on the hinges.
Cages for giant rabbits
Rabbit cages for the “giant” breed are larger than usual. Adults reach a length of 60 cm and a weight of 7.5 kg. The minimum area per animal should be 0.3-0.5 m2. The height of the house is from 55 cm.
Feeders, drinkers and hay
It is important not only to have an idea of how to build a rabbit cage, but also how to properly equip it from the inside. Feeder, drinkers and hay are the constant attributes that must be present.
When equipping a drinking bowl, it is important to take into account the fact that it can be easily removed, since it will have to be washed frequently and the water in it changed. It is best to use trays made of metal strip for this purpose. Attach them to the cage door or next to it on the wall.
One of the most optimal options for making a drinking bowl is using sewer pipes. A scrap of this material with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 8-10 cm is used to decorate the “cup holder”. A trimmed 2-liter plastic bottle fits into this ring. Cut it so that it is on the same level as the “cup holder”, leaving only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long.
How to build a cage for a decorative rabbit with your own hands
When designing cages for decorative rabbits, you should provide for free movement in them. It is recommended to build two tiers with the possibility of transition. You need to start by drawing up a drawing, since such cages are often installed directly in the apartment. In a two-story cage, you should make two doors: one at the bottom end, and the second at the top.
Features of cell location
Rabbits are quite vulnerable animals, so their health and development largely depends on where the cage is located. Here are the basic requirements for the place where animals are kept:
- Direct sunlight should not penetrate into the room;
- You should not place cages in basements, as there is often high air humidity, which makes the animals sick;
- The fenced enclosure should be located in a place where poisonous plants do not grow;
- There should be a blank wall from the north and west, this is necessary for protection from cold winds.
Baby rabbits
If all the above requirements are taken into account, the animals will grow well and gain weight quickly. Also, cages and enclosures should not be located in close proximity to where dogs are kept, since rabbits are shy animals, and dogs have a pronounced hunting instinct. If the dog suddenly breaks free from the chain, he will certainly want to feast on rabbit meat, so you should not deliberately provoke the dog by placing animals near him.
For those who are just starting to breed furry rodents, it is best to use industrial cages. More experienced farmers can easily construct simple houses on their own, using available materials and drawings.
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DIY rabbit cages - photo
You can choose a suitable design or borrow an interesting idea by considering the available options.
Goals of rabbit breeding
For industrial purposes, small tall cages with limited or no zoning are suitable. The format for replenishing food supplies is at the discretion of the owner - from a permanent, separate section with provisions to periodic, personal feeding by adding food to the cage.
At the same time, you should create housing for your pet with special amenities in the form of: a wide walking area, entertainment elements of a structural or portable nature, a spacious sleeping place (either a mound of hay or a fenced space - both options are designed as quiet and dark places).
Mandatory in both cases is the prudent installation of a removable bottom for the entire cage for waste disposal, as well as an additional door in the food compartment for adding food without the risk of rabbits escaping.
It is important to understand that in any case, the animal’s comfort is a priority.