Planting chinchillas: opposite-sex and same-sex individuals together in one cage

Information / How to place a female chinchilla with a male chinchilla

WE WARN YOU IMMEDIATELY: you CANNOT just immediately put a girl chinchilla in a cage with a boy chinchilla!

Domestic chinchillas retain the instincts inherited from their long-standing wild ancestors. In the wild, chinchillas live in herds, and matriarchy reigns within the group. The main chinchilla female (alpha female) herself chooses a male for mating and controls the mating of the remaining females of the lower level of the hierarchy. This reproduction mechanism is due to the poor food supply in the Andes Mountains; it does not allow the chinchilla population to grow excessively.

A female chinchilla will not tolerate an unexpected invasion of the personal space of an unfamiliar male; she will drive him away, bite him, and even kill him.

The procedure for mounting chinchillas takes time and requires attention and control. Let us remind you that sexually mature chinchillas are suitable for creating a pair - a male and a female, at least 10 months old, and preferably a year. Below we offer our own method of planting.

According to our nursery’s method, chinchillas are planted in stages:

Here's what's done at each stage:

Diseases: how dangerous they are and how to treat them

These animals have strong immunity, which is why, with proper care, they rarely get sick. But being in unfavorable conditions can negatively affect their well-being. If the animal experiences a loss of appetite and decreased activity, this is a cause for concern. The following diseases are typical for chinchillas:

1. Bronchopneumonia is accompanied by fever, difficulty breathing, nasal discharge, cough and wheezing. The animal is treated with glucose and vitamins. And also small doses of penicillin. This drug is prescribed intramuscularly once every three days. The dosage must be agreed with your veterinarian.
2. Rectal prolapse. This causes constipation. The fallen part is first treated with furatsilin solution, then with paraffin oil and, using a pipette, carefully set.
3. Formation of hair rings around the male genitals. This prevents it from reproducing. The rings are removed by hand. If they are dry, they are treated with a soap solution.
4. Constipation. It can be caused by a lack of fluid and changes in diet. If there is such a problem, dry food is excluded. The pet is given a laxative and paraffin-based oil is injected into the mouth or rectum.
5. Keratitis is a lesion of the cornea of ​​the eyes. The disease occurs due to contact of the chinchilla with poor-quality sand or mechanical damage. The eyes are washed with furatsilin and treated with levomecithin or tetracycline ointment.
6. Dental diseases occur when there is no stone to grind down. The animal's incisors reach 8 cm and injure the tongue. The molars move. The chinchilla is unable to eat and dies. Treatment involves grinding down the teeth, but this procedure must be performed by a veterinarian.
7. Conjunctivitis manifests itself as purulent or clear discharge from the eyes. May indicate the presence of an infection. The animal's eyes are instilled with fluorescent, then treated with eye ointment every hour.
8. Ticks. They can be detected after careful observation of the animal. The chinchilla's skin peels off and becomes thicker, and the animal suffers from itching. The animal loses weight, and in the absence of adequate treatment, dies. The wool needs to be cut, and the affected areas should be treated with bromocyclene at intervals of 8 days. The dosage is prescribed by the veterinarian. You will also need to disinfect the cage.
9. Flatulence occurs as a result of feeding poor quality food. The animal's temperature drops to 34.5°C, and its general condition worsens. The animal is given activated carbon in powder form. You can use dill water or chamomile infusion. It is better to coordinate treatment with your veterinarian.
10. Otitis is an inflammatory process that affects the external auditory canal. It is the result of pollution. The disease can be detected by the leaking brown liquid. The ear is treated with fish oil and ointment containing zinc.
11. Diarrhea – occurs due to stress and unbalanced nutrition. The animal's temperature rises. He is given oak bark, maple leaves and activated carbon.
12. Heatstroke. This ailment can be recognized by observing the behavior and appearance of the animal. It lies on its side, the ears turn red, and copious amounts of saliva appear. The chinchilla is moved to a cool place and a cold object is placed in the cage. For example, a bottle filled with cold water.
13. Ringworm – baldness appears on the back, sides, head, neck and tail. The skin peels and becomes inflamed. The animal is treated with a 5% iodine solution, medical sulfur or fungistop.

How to tame a young animal?

The small chinchilla is quite timid, so taming should be gradual and careful so that the animal is not stressed. How to tame a chinchilla at a young age?

It is important to speak kindly to the rodent and often flash before its eyes so that the chinchilla gets used to its owner. But when communicating, you should keep your distance - do not put your face too close to the rodent and do not touch it with your hands. You need to approach your pet at a quiet and slow pace; sudden movements and noise can frighten the chinchilla. At first the animal will behave fearfully

But when he stops hiding, you can try to open the cage door, the movements should be smooth and careful. No taming is complete without treats. Therefore, after 3-4 days, you can give the little chinchilla some tasty treat by opening your palm. After 7 (sometimes 14) days, the chinchilla will take treats from your hands. And only after that you can try to pet her and pick her up. Some owners make a certain sound (for example, clicking) before approaching the cage. After some time, the chinchilla associates this sound with the owner approaching it, which means there will be games or treats ahead.

Aggressive behavior of a female with cubs

Usually chinchillas are good and caring parents, but sometimes females show more than just aggression - they kill their offspring. Sometimes a chinchilla can even eat its babies. Why this happens is explained by several reasons:

• The newborns turned out to be very weak and not viable,
• The pregnant female was provided with very poor care and lost all her strength, so to save her life she kills the cubs,
• Too frequent pregnancies also deplete the animal’s body, so she may refuse the next litter,
• The male was not placed in another cage and the female became more aggressive towards her offspring during estrus.

In rare cases, a female has eaten her young due to too much stress during and after birth. If such behavior is noticed, it is better to give the female a rest for at least one year before the next pregnancy.

Cage interior

Inside, the animal’s cage is filled with important elements necessary for the healthy functioning of chinchillas.

Retreat house

Be sure to install a house inside the cage. You can buy it at a pet store or make it yourself using wood as a wall material. Such a refuge inside the cage is necessary so that the animal can retire, hiding from the views of others.

DIY chinchilla house

Tray

Chinchillas use ordinary cat litter boxes as toilets. To save space inside the cage, purchase a corner option. Of course, your pet won't know how to use the litter box correctly at first, but over time you can get him used to it. You just need to be patient.

Chinchillas very quickly get used to visiting the litter box.

How to train a chinchilla to use a litter box

Sand bathing suit

A mandatory procedure for keeping a chinchilla's fur in order is bathing in seliolite sand. Using this exotic procedure, the animals remove accumulated dirt from their fur. In the wild, chinchillas used volcanic dust, which can easily be replaced by sand at home.

What does a purchased chinchilla swimsuit look like?

You can make a swimsuit yourself. Suitable for this:

• large plastic container;
• a water bottle with a hole cut in the side;
• plastic canister;
• small basin.

Take care to secure the product tightly to the wall of the cage, as intensive bathing in the sand by animals can lead to the bathtub turning over.

You can make your own bathing suit for chinchillas

The sand inside such a bathing suit can be either anti-inflammatory or regular. In the first case, you will have to change it for a new one approximately once every two months, in the second - once every two weeks. If this is not done, microorganisms will develop inside the sand, which will then settle in the chinchilla’s coat and cause dermatitis and other skin lesions.

Drinking bowl

A drinking bowl for chinchillas is purchased at a pet store, not just any kind, but a special one for rodents. The device is hung at a height of 10 centimeters from the base of the cage. Only boiled, clean water is poured inside.

Drinking bowl for rodents

Feeder

This device is available in two options:

• floor;
• hinged.

If you prefer the first option, choose a heavy product, since the animal often turns over light containers, spilling water on the bedding.

Ceramic feeder for chinchillas

Mounted feeder

How to line the bottom of the cage

The floor of the cage should be covered with thick carpet. Walking on such flooring, the chinchilla will protect its paws from damage on the slatted floors of the cage.

Coniferous sawdust can serve as bedding.

Unable to use this material, opt for soft sawdust or commercial pine litter for cat litter boxes. It will not only draw out various odors, but also disinfect chinchillas’ paws, protecting them from various diseases.

Why else is it worth keeping a chinchilla at home?

• Keeping this funny rodent at home is a very easy task. Unlike other four-legged friends, chinchillas do not need to be walked, and they do not have a specific odor, this is due to the absence of sweat and sebaceous glands. In an apartment with a chinchilla there is no persistent unpleasant ammonia smell, which is typical for other small animals.
• At home, the chinchilla lives in its own cage and should not be allowed to roam freely around the rooms. This rule is primarily related to ensuring safety for the pet, but on the other hand, there will be no torn books, broken wires, scratched furniture or damaged repairs in your home.
• The wool of this animal is considered hypoallergenic, which is very important for families with small children or people prone to allergic reactions.
• This animal does not require daily investment; chinchillas only need to be fed once a day.
• With adequate communication without sudden movements and grabbing, the chinchilla gets used to the owner, is able to get bored and sincerely rejoice at his appearance.
• The last important fact is the cost of the rodent. A good breeding specimen is expensive and keeping a chinchilla as a pet is at least prestigious.

Where is it better to have a chinchilla in an apartment or in a house?

Home environment is an important factor to consider before adopting a chinchilla. There is no fundamental difference between a private house and an apartment. Such a pet does not need to be walked, so if you can allocate enough space for a cage or display case, everything will work out well.

boy - Shusha It is much more important to choose the right room. Remember that the chinchilla is a nocturnal animal: during the day it sleeps most of the time, but at dusk it begins to become active. Putting a cage in the bedroom would be a bad idea - the rodent will simply not let you sleep. And in the kitchen or living room the pet itself will be uncomfortable due to the noise of equipment and conversations.

Chinchillas are very sensitive to temperature changes. For example, overheating (above 22°C) can cause heat stroke and death

Therefore, it is important to monitor the indicators both in summer (have air conditioning) and in winter (control the heating system)

This point should be taken into account by residents of apartments in high-rise buildings, because in many buildings the housing and communal services are responsible for this, and it can be problematic to equalize the indicators with personal equipment. In order not to endanger your pet, take care of a suitable environment and only then get a chinchilla.

Content Basics

It should be remembered that the chinchilla spends all its time in a cage or display case. Due to the peculiarity of heat exchange of this animal, the temperature regime should be observed. The rodent's body temperature is 36 degrees. It is better to place the cage in a room with air conditioning; do not place it next to a radiator, otherwise during the heating season the animal may develop heatstroke, even leading to cardiac arrest.

At the same time, exclude direct air flows or drafts and direct exposure to sunlight. The habitat of your future pet should be in a cool (with a temperature of 18-20 degrees Celsius), shaded and, most importantly, quiet room.

But take care of your peace, the animal is nocturnal and there is no need to place a cage in the bedroom or in the room with the child, because night walks and games of a furry pet can disturb a restful sleep.

Cage equipment

The chinchilla will spend its entire life in your apartment in a cage and therefore the habitat should be spacious; it should be noted that cramped conditions are very depressing for the animal and this greatly shortens the life of the fluffy.

The minimum size of the cage is 60 by 60 cm, but the larger the display case, the better for the pet. Locks and latches must be strong and reliable so that an inquisitive animal cannot open them and escape from its home. Walking freely around the apartment is a great stress for the animal and is fraught with many dangers; any electrical wire can cause the death of the pet.

The main components of a cell:

• For chinchillas, you cannot place drinking bowls in the form of cups or bowls; the animal can turn them over and spill water. The drinking bowl must be made of high-quality plastic that does not allow water to pass through. If you purchase a ball drinker, make sure that no water accumulates under it, otherwise the animal will wet its fur. European drinking bowls are made of high-strength plastic, the spout is made of stainless steel, they do not leak and dispense the right amount of water strictly on demand. Experienced breeders recommend nipple drinkers. The drinkers are attached to the display case using suction cups or screws.

The drinking bowl must be disinfected regularly. It is good to do this with baking soda, then rinse with running water and pour over boiling water. Choose a drinking bowl that is convenient to attach and regularly remove and wash, as well as add fresh water. By the way, there are molds in which the top lid is removed.

• When choosing a feeder, pay attention to its stability, because active pets can turn over all the food and get injured during play. It is better to purchase a hanging feeder that is quite heavy in weight - ceramic or metal. It should be noted that plastic feeders are quickly chewed by rodents.
• Sennitsa is also a very necessary accessory. The hay does not scatter all over the display case and the animal takes only the required amount. Thanks to the closed design, the hay always remains fresh and with such a convenient element you can leave your pet for a couple of days without fear that he will be left without food. Attach the hay to the cage using bolts and washers.
• A hiding house allows the rodent to rest during the day and hide from danger. The material for production is only wood, because the animal can destroy its shelter. Attention, do not buy or make a shelter made of oak or resinous wood. A large amount of tannins causes constipation in chinchillas, and essential oils can cause poisoning.
• You need to install a bathing suit measuring 30 by 20 cm in the cage. Fill it with special sand, which is sold in a pet store; it can be of volcanic origin or contains talc. The sand needs to be changed regularly and cleaned of debris and feces.
• The cage should have wooden shelves and a wheel for games. Choose safe wood.
• To grind down constantly growing incisors and provide mineral premixes, equip the chinchilla's home with salt and limestones.
• It is better to purchase a tin pallet; it is advisable to choose a floor covering with low thermal conductivity; it is good to use sawdust or special wood filler.

Cleaning the cage should be done regularly, general cleaning should be done at least once a week, disinfection should preferably be carried out using an ultraviolet bactericidal lamp, drinking bowls and feeders should be washed with a soda solution and doused with boiling water.

How to choose a chinchilla: a pet with character

So, if you decide to get this cute creature, then when visiting a chinchilla breeder, pay attention to the behavior of the animals when the owner approaches the cages or opens the doors. Keep in mind that each animal has its own unique character.

Some of the chinchillas run up to the open door with curiosity and even try to take advantage of the opportunity to get out. These are definitely leaders. They are not only the most active, but also the most restless, and at the same time, the most interesting animals. Communication with them will bring a lot of pleasure and positivity, especially to children.

There is also a type of animal that, when the cage is open, is not in a hurry to leave it, but first tries to find out for what purpose it was opened: whether they want to feed them, offer them a walk, or want to transplant them into another cage. This category of chinchillas has a calm character and balanced temperament. It is good to form long-term pairs from such animals, when the female and the male constantly live together and take care of the offspring.

But there are also chinchillas who either show virtually no reaction when the door is opened, or even try to hide in the farthest corner of the cage. Similar behavior is observed when kept in groups, and these animals are in a depressed state. If you do choose such an animal, then, to be honest, its character is difficult to predict. If the animal is already an adult, it may become withdrawn and avoid contact with humans. If he is still a baby, then perhaps he will grow up to be a cheerful and sociable pet. But if your animal still turns out to be too closed, then in the end, establishing friendly contact with it will depend only on your patience and the time you devote to it.

So, we have decided on the character of the animal. But besides this, we need, of course, a healthy animal.

Placing same-sex chinchillas together

The successful outcome of breeding same-sex chinchillas depends on who exactly they are trying to make friends with.

A female and a female, no matter how hard the owner tries, will not be able to get along together, especially if one of them lived alone for a long time.

Things are different with the mounting of males. It is quite possible to make friends and place two male animals in one place even after a protracted period of loneliness, however, experts recommend that breeders pay attention to the occurrence of fights and quarrels between rodents during the first time of cohabitation.

Chinchilla and hamster in the same cage

A chinchilla and a hamster will also not get along together in the same cage, because these animals differ not only in size, character and behavior. Furry pets have completely different body needs and feeding them with one food is not recommended.

Food for chinchillas contains mainly cereals, dried greens and seeds, and ready-made food for hamsters contains dried fruits and vegetables, which do not provide any benefit to animals from South America. Fresh vegetables and fruits, which are delicacies for hamsters, should also not be consumed by chinchillas.

The menu of hamsters can sometimes be diversified with dairy products, but giving chinchillas milk or cottage cheese is contraindicated, as this will lead to the development of gastrointestinal tract diseases or even food poisoning in pets.

We should not forget that, despite their miniature size, hamsters can be quite aggressive, especially Djungarian ones. A little pet can attack a furry neighbor and seriously injure her with his sharp teeth.

Chinchilla and hamster should not live together

Experts do not recommend keeping chinchillas together with degus, rats, hamsters and other rodents. If the owner wants to find a friend for a furry pet, then he should remember that these cute and timid animals feel most comfortable either alone or in the company of their fellow tribesmen.

Placing same-sex chinchillas together

Chinchillas, living without a pair, are easier to tame and more attached to the owner. But, if the owner does not have the opportunity to devote a lot of time to the pet, the best way out is to place a friend with him.

When purchasing a same-sex friend for a furry pet, the owner should know that only boys can get along together. Perhaps, at first, two males will start quarrels and fights with each other, but as they get used to it, they will become, if not friends, then good neighbors.

Two adult female chinchillas will not get along with each other, so you should not even try to put them in the same cage. Only chinchilla sisters from the same family, or girls raised together from a young age, can share a home with each other.

Video: what age difference is acceptable when boarding chinchillas

Prohibited Products

Persimmons are prohibited for feeding. This fruit, useful for humans, is rich in iodine, which is contraindicated for animals. In addition to iodine, persimmons contain a lot of sugar and astringents, which will lead to constipation.

It is not recommended to give chinchillas and beets.

The root vegetable is healthy, but has a laxative effect. In rare cases, small pieces of beets can be given for constipation. Any type of cabbage leads to severe gas formation. Chinchillas love to feast on tea rose petals - they taste pleasant and have an attractive aroma. If flowers are grown in your own garden, there is no danger, but it is better not to give store-bought ones. They contain a lot of pesticides and chemicals that can cause serious poisoning.

When preparing tree branches for the winter, it is worth remembering which species are dangerous and unsuitable for feeding. Branches of which trees cannot be harvested:

• Apricot,
• white acacia,
• Beech,
• Ash leaf maple,
• Common buckthorn
• Cedar,
• Chestnut,
• Branches of any citrus species,
• Cypress,
• Elderberries,
• Cherries,
• Cherries,
• Branches of any coniferous species,
• Holly,
• Hydrangeas,
• Juniper,
• Common maple
• Myrta,
• Oleander,
• Plums.

Branches of stone fruit trees (cherry, cherry, plum, and so on) are dangerous because they contain a dangerous cyanide compound, as a result of the breakdown of which hydrocyanic acid is formed in the chinchilla’s body. If you feed an animal with such twigs, you can get not only severe poisoning, but also the rapid death of your pet.

Prohibited products also include any type of honey, as well as store-bought cottage cheese and fermented milk products.

Not all breeders know that chinchillas should not be given leaves, stems and flowers of indoor plants. Most of them are poisonous to the animal and very often cause death.

It is also not recommended to give any food from a person's table. Everything that is normal and familiar, even useful for people, for a chinchilla becomes the cause of digestive problems, allergies, obesity and other serious diseases. The animal will never refuse tasty and aromatic food and can eat a piece of cake, cheese, meat or fish. However, such food is not normal and familiar to the stomach of a furry pet. And the possible consequences are very sad.

Nutrition

Chinchillas are fed once a day in the evening, as they are nocturnal. The basis of the diet is balanced granulated food. Additionally, herbs are introduced - fresh and dried, apples, carrots. To maintain immunity and compensate for the lack of fresh air, it is necessary to give vitamin complexes weekly.

An adult animal eats about 50 g of food per day. However, it is necessary to take into account the rather large difference in the weight of animals depending on gender, species and age. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the dosage for specific individuals.

Particular attention should be paid to the nutrition of pregnant females and young animals. For the first one and a half to two months, the cubs are fed with milk, then they are removed from the mother into a separate cage and given regular food.

It is extremely undesirable to change anything in the diet of females and young individuals, as they react sharply to new foods.

How to breed chinchillas of different sexes

Knowing the behavioral characteristics of females and males, you can avoid a conflict situation when placing furry pets of different sexes:

• if placement is carried out with the aim of producing offspring, then it is advisable to place the female in the cage with the male, since females more zealously defend their territory;
• a chinchilla pair is selected no earlier than the animal reaches six months of age;
• before placing a boy and a girl in the same cage, their homes are placed close together so that they can get to know each other and get used to the smell of others;
• if the acquaintance was successful and the rodents do not show aggression towards each other, they are swapped: the male is released into the female’s cage for several hours and vice versa;
• you cannot place a male with a girl when she is in heat, since boys are impatient at this moment, and the female needs time to get used to the suitor;
• To form a trio of adult chinchillas, follows this rule: one female, two males, since two girls will not tolerate each other in the same cage.

Planting chinchillas - 5 ways

In order to reduce the likelihood of conflict risks when breeding chinchillas of different sexes, you need to know not only the biological characteristics of the body of these animals, but also the nuances of their psychology.

Despite the fact that for humans the chinchilla is an almost odorless animal, nevertheless, one of the main means of communication between chinchillas and each other is smell. Chinchillas recognize each other using primarily their sense of smell.

Therefore, if you try to directly, without preliminary preparation, place one animal with another in a cage in which it has already lived for some time, even if only for a short time, a psychological conflict between them is almost inevitable. The owner of the premises, having discovered a new smell on his “legal” territory, will try to evict its owner.

Naturally, the new settler, in turn, will resist this with all his might and means. Showdowns can take a variety of forms: from light snorting and snorting to serious fights that end in severe injuries.

In order to reduce the initial mutual aggression and protect animals from unnecessary “showdowns,” there are several ways of mutual habituation.

Methods of mutual addiction:

Method 1 is simple . Let’s call it “we are nearby”. In this case, the cage with the new animal is located next to the cage of the old-timer, but in such a way that the chinchillas do not reach each other through the bars and do not bite off each other’s fingers, lips or noses.

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The advantage of this method of habituation is that the animals see each other, smell the neighbor, but at the same time each is in its own territory.

Gradually, the animals get used to one another, and the smells from neighboring cells are no longer felt by them as foreign. Moreover, chinchillas begin to perceive another cage standing nearby as their own habitat, which is still closed to visitors for some reason unknown to them.

That this is really the case is evidenced by the fact that if you leave the cage doors open during a general walk around the apartment, the chinchillas will calmly come in and study their neighbor’s cage. It would seem like a foreign territory... But no! They no longer experience any fear or discomfort.

After the animals get used to each other, they are placed in a common cage. The described method is the simplest, but time-consuming. It can take from several days to several weeks. This method can be recommended to a chinchilla breeder with little experience in keeping these animals.

Method 2. It can be called this way - “they swapped places.” Carriers or small, so-called “exhibition” cages are taken. The chinchillas sit in these carriers for several hours.

Then the chinchillas are changed places - transplanted to where the neighbor used to sit. This chinchilla castling is repeated several times until the chinchillas get used to each other’s smell.

In this case, the carrier is not washed after the previous chinchilla, so as not to remove its smell. After the animals get used to it and stop reacting aggressively to their neighbor, they are released into a common cage.

3 way. It's called "we come to you." Its essence lies in the fact that another chinchilla, which lives in a large cage, is added to it, but... in a carrier. Yes, that’s right, they literally take a carrier with a chinchilla and put it in a large cage.

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Chinchillas will be able to communicate, show dissatisfaction with each other, but they will not be able to seriously fight. As one of the wise correctly noted, “a bad peace is better than a good quarrel.” Is not it? If you try to directly, without prior preparation, place one animal with another in a cage in which it has already lived for some time, even if only for a short time, a psychological conflict between them is almost inevitable.

4 way. It is the reverse version of the previous one. The aboriginal chinchilla is locked in a carrier where the new tenant was previously sitting, and placed in this carrier in his former large cage.

A newcomer who was previously sitting in a carrier is released into the same cage. The neophyte chinchilla moves freely around the cage, leaving its odorous “substances” in different places.

5 way. To make it easier to get used to, you can use a common bathing suit, in which one animal washes first, then the other. In order to choose the most suitable method of boarding for your situation, I recommend paying attention to the character of the chinchillas and their temperament. If both animals are calm, somewhat phlegmatic, and close to each other in age and weight, then you can use the first two methods. They are methods of mild psychological suppression and work well with similar animals.

If one of the chinchillas is noticeably more active and restless than the other, if there is a gap in the weight, age or life experience of the animals, and in the end, if you yourself have no experience of boarding or have, but intuitively feel a possible failure, then it is better to play it safe and To avoid future problems, use the third and fourth methods.

Of course, they are somewhat tougher than the first two, but... in some cases, they are much more effective. And also, I would recommend placing an aggressive animal in a small carrier - this will help somewhat reduce its temperament and reduce the overall intensity of passions. Here, as with people, staying in a small solitary confinement is always more effective than in a large general one. Inexperienced males are especially susceptible to this so-called “stress of the first meeting”. Or experienced ones, but frightened by an extremely aggressive female. It's sad, but it's true...

It is believed that in order for the planting to go smoothly, certain rules should be followed. The boarding of chinchillas should be approached in good faith and carried out with maximum thoughtfulness and care towards the animals. As experience shows, their future life together largely depends on how smoothly the first meeting of chinchillas went.

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And not only with each other, but also with other chinchillas. A negative experience leaves a serious imprint on the psyche, and it can be quite difficult to get an animal out of a stressful state. According to psychologists, it only takes about 60 seconds for people of different sexes to understand on a subconscious level whether they are suitable for each other for family life.

Chinchillas don't even need this minute. If you suddenly didn’t foresee or foresee something, then the first meeting of the future married couple will end very quickly and negatively - with bickering, a quarrel or even a fight. And this is a real psychological trauma for the chinchilla. Subsequent attempts to reconnect and reconcile animals that quarreled at the first meeting may lead to nothing.

Alas... There is no point in doing anything when the female is in heat. There will be no calm landing. The male will not care about such psychological subtleties as mutual habituation. Male nature will demand its own, what kind of cupids are there! For the female, in turn, the persistent desire of the “first person he meets” to cover her will also not bring the slightest pleasure. The result of all this is an immediate, momentary quarrel.

Now, as for the optimal age to start planting. Based on my own experience, I can say that the first mating in chinchillas should occur no earlier than eight to nine months in females and no earlier than six months in males.

There are, of course, cases of earlier planting, but personally I don’t see anything good in this. What could possibly be good about early pregnancy in a female who is physiologically unprepared for this? Why this unjustified risk?

It's like a lottery, you know. Everything may end well, but... In general, if you, after all, cannot bear to put the health of your children on the line, then so what. Nobody can prohibit this. But you still need to realize that all responsibility for what is happening and possible consequences falls entirely on the owner.

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By the way, early seating can also occur unintentionally - due to ignorance or carelessness. But, as lawyers say, ignorance of the law does not excuse one from responsibility. The physical condition of the chinchillas is also of great importance when boarding.

Naturally, future parents must be healthy, and their body weight must be at least 450-500 grams. everyone has it. This is due to possible weight loss, which can occur during mounting in both females and males, but in any case, it is a bad sign that requires an immediate response from the chinchilla breeder.

In general, when it comes to setting up such a psychologically complex creature as a chinchilla, it is better to play it safe. Believe me, this is exactly the case when moderate conservatism will only be beneficial. For both you and your pet.

Preparing to purchase a chinchilla

If you decide to have an exotic rodent at home, you should prepare your apartment for this event in advance. Before a chinchilla appears in the house you need to:

• Buy a chinchilla cage or make one yourself.
• Purchase the necessary equipment - a drinking bowl, a feeding trough, a hay barn, a house, a swimming pool, toys, a pallet.
• Purchase cleaning and disinfection products, mineral stone, filler, volcanic sand for bathing.
• Stock up on hay, food, and tree branches.
• Prepare a place for the animal to walk.
• Conduct an explanatory conversation with children.
• Look for a veterinary clinic closer to your home and make an agreement with the veterinarian in advance.

Focusing on sounds

Like cats, chinchillas are better at accepting names that contain whistling and hissing sounds (i.e. з, с, щ, з, ч, ж). By the way, it’s easier for the owner to pronounce such names.

Quite often, owners (especially young ones) name a chinchilla after a movie, book or cartoon character. Sometimes a nickname can be chosen in honor of a city or other geographical feature. Sometimes a pet is called the sonorous name of a musical idol. There are also cases such as names in honor of a car brand.

Health of British Shorthair cats

British chinchillas are distinguished by good health, rarely get sick and do not suffer from chronic diseases of internal organs even at an advanced age. However, this breed has two weak points: eyes and teeth.

The health of British cats is considered excellent

Animal teeth are susceptible to early tartar formation. Therefore, it is recommended to monitor the condition of your teeth from an early age to avoid problems in the future.

Important! There are lines of food specifically designed to care for the animal’s oral cavity. In addition, many representatives of the breed have watery eyes.

To avoid this, it is enough to remove plaque in the corners once a week with a damp cotton swab.

In addition, many representatives of the breed experience tearing eyes. To avoid this, it is enough to remove plaque in the corners once a week with a damp cotton swab.

Diseases

Despite good immunity, Britons can still suffer from the following diseases:

• obesity;
• claw fungus;
• parasites;
• hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM);
• gastrointestinal diseases.

To avoid health problems, it is important to give your pet the necessary vaccinations on time and undergo regular checkups with a veterinarian.

How long do British cats live?

Despite the fact that this breed was bred artificially, it has a good gene pool and high immunity. The average life expectancy for cats ranges from 12-15 years. Time directly depends on the cat’s nutrition and care, because this affects the body’s ability to withstand stress and recover.

Life expectancy at home is in any case much higher than that of their yard counterparts

The more centenarians an animal has in its family, the more likely it is that the cat will live 17 years or more.

How long do British cats live at home (neutered)

A neutered British chinchilla has a less positive life, since as a result of genetic changes such cats often suffer from obesity. And this affects the functioning of the heart, liver, kidneys, and pancreas. Even eating special food for sterilized animals, a neutered cat is unlikely to live more than 10 years.

How long do pregnant British cats walk for the first time?

Typically, an adult cat carries her first offspring and gives birth on time, that is, 63 days after mating. Three kittens are born. In subsequent times, the number of kittens being born grows to 5-6, and the kitten can give birth 3-7 days earlier.

Chinchilla bathing and grooming

To care for a chinchilla's coat, you need to comb it regularly and provide the rodent with good sand for bathing.

The first brushings in a rodent's life should be started with a brush with sparse teeth, so that the animal gradually gets used to the new sensations and is not afraid of this manipulation. Talk kindly to the animal, do not make sudden movements. Over time, your pet will get used to it and you can use a fine-toothed brush and comb out the deep undercoat as expected. The teeth should have rounded edges so as not to injure your pet’s delicate skin.

It is better to use special sand, because in nature chinchillas bathe in volcanic ash. Ordinary river sand can break delicate hairs and clog fur. By the way, experienced breeders use zeolite dust before exhibitions. This composition lifts the undercoat and makes it even airier. The fur begins to shimmer in the light, and after such a bath the animal looks very well-groomed. The only drawback of this procedure is the fine dust that settles on all objects around the animal’s display case.

You cannot bathe chinchillas in water, because they do not have sebaceous glands and they get wet through and through. Bathing should be carried out at least 3 times a week, for an hour, although animals are happy to bathe for hours, but if they bathe for a long time, the coat can become dry.

Proper maintenance of chinchillas in an apartment, a well-equipped spacious cage, a well-thought-out food supply, good organization of the bathing process and active night games - this is the minimum for a long and happy life of a rodent, which will in return delight you with its attention and relieve your fatigue after a long day of work day. And your children will be able to spend hours watching the habits of a funny furry animal; positive emotions will be guaranteed for the whole family for many years.

What should you not feed your chinchilla?

We have outlined in general terms what they eat under conditions. Now let's look at what they shouldn't eat.

In addition to the desirable and mandatory foods, there is a whole list of undesirable ones. Sometimes owners really want to feed their pets something tasty and healthy. From the owner's point of view, of course. But some of these products that are beneficial for humans can be harmful and even dangerous for animals.

So before feeding, you need to immediately study the list of what chinchillas should not eat. To avoid health problems. It is necessary to immediately determine what chinchillas can eat occasionally, and what should never be given.

What is the character of a chinchilla?

I would say that the main character trait of a chinchilla is cunning. Barbossa is very cunning, “thought out”.

From experience: It seems to me that he understands everything. I talk to him, and he sits down, looks at me carefully - and still does what he shouldn’t do. For example, we put up new wallpaper, and Barbossa is chewing on it. I tell him: “Barbossa, you can’t!” He looks sideways at me, and still bites them defiantly. I run up and chase him away - he runs away, but he perceives it as a game.

If a chinchilla is stressed, it may shed its fur. Also, if they are pushed too hard, they may squirt urine or bite. But we didn’t bring Barbossa to this. The most he allows himself is to cackle.

In general, chinchillas make very funny sounds. At night, if Barbossa doesn't like something, he can bark. But, as a rule, he is silent.

In the photo: chinchilla

Do chinchillas themselves need walks?

Experienced chinchilla breeders say that walks are not needed by the animals themselves, but rather by their owners, and the reasons may be different. Some people think that in this way they can make friends with the animal, while others are sure that advancement for a chinchilla is the key to health. In fact, it is not compensated in any way. On the contrary, this mobility can play a cruel joke on your pet. The fact is that chinchillas are very afraid of loud sounds and sudden movements. If in a cage they are almost minimal, then in freedom the risk of getting a stroke from fright increases significantly.

Some owners buy special walking balls for their pets. A rodent is placed inside such a ball, which can run around the room calmly and safely. But such toys are not suitable for chinchillas. These small animals tolerate heat very poorly, and in such a ball it is very stuffy and there is very little air.

Features of chinchilla breeding

In order for chinchilla breeding to be successful, the breeder must follow simple rules:

• Animals weighing at least 450 grams are allowed for mating,
• It's better not to happen to young individuals,
• Before giving birth, the male should be placed in another cage for two to three days to avoid re-covering the female.

Animals mate most often at night. Pregnancy lasts on average 110 days, but a female can carry offspring for 100 or 130 days. The exact duration depends on the number of cubs (there are usually no more than six) and the characteristics of the female’s body.

The onset of estrus (estrus) can be determined by the changed behavior of the female: she becomes more restless, the genitals change color and become swollen.

The onset of pregnancy can be determined after a month and a half by the swelling of the nipples, as well as by a uniform weight gain. If you palpate the abdomen, you can find small compactions - embryos. However, it is not recommended to probe very often - this can lead to miscarriage.

Most often, chinchillas give birth at night and females do not require human assistance. However, if the female has already given birth and feels safe, labor can begin at any time of the day. Difficulties with childbirth can only arise if the female is injured or seriously ill during pregnancy. In order for the female to bear and give birth to healthy offspring, it is recommended to switch her to a diet with an abundance of succulent food and the addition of dairy products.