Red-eared turtles care and maintenance in winter

Turtle lovers often argue whether it is necessary to hibernate their pets? There is no clear answer in the literature on keeping turtles.

Some authors believe that turtles should not be hibernated, especially for novice owners. They motivate their point of view by the fact that it is quite difficult for an inexperienced tortoisekeeper to properly organize the conditions for hibernation. They advise feeding the turtle well and heating it properly, and then it will safely survive the cold season without hibernation. Other authors, for the benefit of turtles, recommend artificially inducing animals into a state of hibernation, but be sure to properly prepare the animal and control the temperature. In addition, it is believed that hibernation is one of the factors that stimulate the reproduction of turtles. Therefore, if next year you expect to get offspring from your animals, it is better to hibernate them.

Features of hibernation in domestic turtles

Red-eared turtles living at home hibernate only in rare cases.
This condition is observed in single individuals or is achieved artificially due to manipulations by the owner. Turtles hibernate at low temperatures, so comfortable housing conditions that maintain optimal temperatures eliminate this need. Due to the reduction in daylight hours in winter, reptiles sleep more than usual, but do not lose activity.

If you try to lull a turtle at home, you may encounter the following problems:

1. Deviation of humidity and temperature indicators
   . Too low levels can lead to the death of the pet.
2. Penetration of insects
   . Intruders entering the wintering area can damage the sleeping turtle.
3. Deterioration of condition
   . Hibernation takes a lot of resources from the body, so sick animals run the risk of complications.

Rules for caring for a sleeping turtle

If you notice the first signs of the approaching winter in a red-eared slider, be sure to consult with a veterinarian, who will examine it and tell you what needs to be done if the reptile actually hibernates.

During the winter, adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Lower the water level. The turtle burrows into the ground, where it can sleep for a long time without rising to the surface. Oxygen is obtained by special membranes in the cloaca and oral cavity.
2. Turn off additional lighting. The pet will have to go to the bottom to maintain warmth, so turn off the filtration and monitor the water level. Excessive movement will destroy the thermal layer, and a low water level will lead to freezing to the very bottom.
3. Avoid feeding. Thanks to slow digestion, the turtle digests the food eaten the day before over the course of several months.
4. Monitor your pet's well-being. Domestic turtles fall asleep as early as November, when daylight hours begin to shorten, and sleep for about 4 months. It happens that the reptile does not wake up even in February. In this case, you have to wake up the pet yourself.

If the turtle looks active or it is February, then gradually increase the temperature and light to normal. The recovery period takes from 5 to 7 days.

You can feed your pet only after returning to normal activity, but not earlier than the 5th day.

IMPORTANT! After winter is over, take your pet to a veterinary clinic for an examination. The doctor will identify possible complications and prescribe timely treatment if necessary.

Not everything is so bad: when a person is a friend to a turtle

Photo: m24.ru/Alexander Avilov

In fact, a turtle can get along well with a person if you care for it properly and do not expose its life to undue risk. The press service of the Moscow Zoo told m24.ru that 16 species of turtles safely exist in their terrarium, including a huge black elephant turtle, the size of which can reach 130 centimeters and weight up to 300 kilograms.

Land turtles in the zoo are fed vegetables and fruits, while freshwater turtles are fed fish, meat, squid and insects. They keep turtles in specially equipped terrariums, providing them with all the conditions for proper habitat and reproduction.

Keeping a turtle, including at home, largely depends on its species

It is important that the home is spacious. Freshwater animals should be kept in an aquarium with water and land areas (for example, in the form of stones), a special filter to purify the water and, preferably, there should be an ultraviolet lamp above the aquarium, which helps strengthen the animal’s skeletal system

Land turtles live well in a terrarium or enclosure with soil and dry grass.

Photo: m24.ru/Lidiya Shironina

Some people love their pets so much that they constantly associate themselves with them - this is noticeable in photographs and cute statuses on social networks. Psychologist Natalya Panfilova explained to m24.ru what this widespread social phenomenon is connected with:

“The explanation is as old as the world: if we take some archaic things, our ancient ancestors often compared themselves to some animals. For example, they took speed from a cheetah, strength from a wolf, and so on. People love to take pictures with cats because many people associate a cat with the warmth of home or with independence. Man tries to associate himself with those characteristics of animals that he himself would like to possess.”

When asked what you associate turtles with, most will answer – with slowness. Therefore, we decided to find out how human slowness differs from real snail speed.

Adviсe

• The turtle will not play like a cat or dog.
• Protect your pet from drafts, feed it a variety of food, and treat it on time.
• Think carefully about the purchase, because the pet lives quite a long time, and if released into the wild, it will die in the natural conditions of central Russia.

Turtle is a great choice for people who don't like noise. A leisurely turtle relaxes and clears the mind of hustle and bustle, and taking care of it brings true pleasure.

Previous InhabitantsWhat to feed omnivorous and herbivorous land turtles at home? Next InhabitantsTricks for keeping a Chinese newt

Wintering of turtles or hibernation

Turtles are reptiles that are very sensitive to changes in temperature and weather conditions in general. If it becomes too hot or too cold outside in natural conditions, turtles may enter summer or winter hibernation, respectively.

The turtle digs a hole in which it sleeps in the flesh until the temperature changes. Normal hibernation lasts four to six months, usually occurring from December to March. When a reptile notices a change in temperature, which reaches at least 17-18 degrees, it begins to actively prepare for wintering. However, after the temperature mark exceeds these indicators, the reptile wakes up accordingly. The thermoregulation of the turtle's body is designed in such a way that the reptile itself regulates the time of continuous sleep.

However, it is worth noting that all these norms are characteristic of the natural living conditions of reptiles; as for the conditions of home keeping, it is very difficult to properly provide the conditions that are necessary for wintering. If all the regime indicators are not followed correctly, it can be very difficult to bring the reptile out of hibernation, and sometimes it is simply impossible. Therefore, if you are not a professional in keeping reptiles, then it is better not to put them into hibernation mode; it is also not recommended to hibernate weak and sick animals, as this can be fraught with bad consequences for the health of turtles.

It is worth noting the positive aspects of reptile hibernation. Due to the fact that reptiles hibernate in natural conditions, this has the best effect on the functioning of the reptile’s thyroid gland, which significantly affects the life expectancy of the reptile. For males, this is necessary in order to stabilize the function of the genital organs, as well as the formation of follicles in females. This is also a significant measure necessary in order to maintain the hormonal level of the animal’s body at the proper level, as well as to exclude any malfunctions in the functioning of all vital systems of the body. Both freshwater and land turtles can be hibernated.

As for the disadvantages of wintering, it is worth noting that the most severe consequences of improper hibernation can be both illness of the animal and death.

How to properly arrange a place to sleep

When the time for hibernation approaches for red-eared turtles, they begin to behave a little strangely. However, it is worth noting that the approach of this moment can be determined by the following changes that occur in the behavior and condition of the animal:

• The red-eared reptile begins to limit the number of its movements;
• The animal begins to yawn quite often;
• Characteristic clogging into a corner of an aquarium or terrarium. However, it may not show signs of activity at all.

If you notice all these signs in your animal, then first you should consult with a highly qualified veterinarian, who will initially determine what exactly is happening to the animal, and also rule out possible diseases that also have characteristic symptoms. If everything is fine with the animal’s condition, then these signs are precisely symptoms of the approaching wintering of red-eared turtles.

In order for the reptile to enter wintering mode with the least loss to health and during sleep it receives all the necessary nutrients, which in about two months will significantly increase the reptile’s diet. This increase contributes to an increase in body weight, which is a reserve for kicking. It is also worth considering that a reptile can lose almost half of its weight during sleep.

When the penultimate week begins before hibernation, it is worth completely limiting the animal’s diet, and immediately the day before going to bed, it is worth bathing it several times, this is necessary so that the animal can completely empty its intestines, thereby independently preparing itself for sleep.

Cooking the turtle itself is a mandatory process, but it is equally important to properly mark the place where the sleeping resident will spend the winter. Temperature readings should not exceed 6C

The best place for wintering is the basement, which is usually a fairly cold place, but nowadays it is quite difficult to find such cellars. It is worth accustoming a reptile to these temperature indicators gradually, since a sharp decrease in temperature indicators can lead to the unexpected death of the animal.

The next prerequisite is maintaining the correct humidity level. In the container where the red-eared turtle will sleep, it is necessary to lay natural bedding, ideally it should be moss or peat. This flooring should be constantly moistened, but care must be taken that it is not wet.

If all the conditions necessary for the proper hibernation process are carried out correctly, then the animal can remain in sleep mode for three to five months. However, it is worth noting that after the specified time has elapsed, the turtle must be properly taken out of sleep mode.

Does a turtle need to hibernate?

Most experts in keeping turtles at home and veterinarians agree that although these creatures plunge into winter sleep in their natural habitat, it is better not to allow this to happen at home. Because you may have problems waking them up. So, it is better to make sure in advance that your pet receives enough light and warmth at any time of the year - this will prevent his desire to sleep. Otherwise, without preliminary preparation and the necessary conditions for winter sleep, the turtle may not wake up.

As for whether the absence of hibernation harms the animal, experts are sure that it does not. The main thing is that the pet is properly cared for and comfortable living conditions are created for it.

How to care for an awakened turtle

After hibernation, the turtle’s body is dehydrated, and it itself is hungry, therefore, you will have to provide it with everything it needs and create comfortable living conditions for it. As a rule, 5-7 days are enough for the animal to completely “wake up” and return to its usual way of life.

Video about turtles

Today we talked about how to wake up a turtle, whether it really needs hibernation, what conditions are necessary for your turtle to sleep sweetly, and how to wake up your sleeping beauty or handsome man. We hope that our tips and recommendations will be useful to you and will save the life of your pet.

Oh, does your turtle hibernate? How long does her sleep last? How do you usually wake her up? Share your experiences and stories with us.

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Why do turtles need to hibernate?

Many animals living in temperate climates hibernate in order to better survive the winter. During the cold season, the total number and duration of sunny days sharply decreases, and due to the fact that the body temperature of turtles directly depends on the ambient temperature, these animals are forced to hibernate in winter so as not to die from hypothermia. In a state of hibernation, their heart rate noticeably decreases, metabolism and breathing also slow down, and any movement is reduced to a minimum, which allows rational use of fat reserves accumulated during the active period of the year.

The process of hibernation for turtles is extremely important, because it directly affects the production of offspring. Experts say that adults should spend about 6 months sleeping, from approximately October to the end of March, and for young animals, as a rule, this period can be 1-2 months. With age, the duration of the winter sleep period only needs to be increased. If the turtle is unwell, it must be cured before hibernating.

What does it take for a turtle to hibernate?

Experts recommend hibernating your animal because it is very beneficial for its health. However, as mentioned earlier, this is quite difficult to do in room conditions. If the turtle’s habitat is a body of water, then this is a completely different matter. The natural habitat conditions of turtles are the best conditions for introducing wintering. However, it is also worth noting that if you live in a private house, then providing the reptile with the best conditions for wintering will be much easier.

If the behavior of the animal changes sharply, it refuses food, often sits in the corner, and also begins to undermine the soil, all this indicates that it is time to put the turtle to bed, then you should adhere to the following rules in order to ensure a proper bedtime :

• You should be completely sure that the species of your pet belongs to those breeds of turtles that can be wintered;
• It is worth consulting with a veterinarian in order to exclude any diseases of the animal, since only a healthy turtle should be hibernated. However, you should avoid taking any vitamins immediately before wintering;
• It is worth taking care of the animal’s proper diet. This is necessary so that the reptile gains a sufficient amount of fat deposits, which will serve as food for the body during sleep. It is also worth making sure that your pets drink as much liquid as possible.
• If your pet's species is a land turtle, then you should bathe it in fairly warm water, then limit its food for several days, this is necessary so that the food that the reptile eats is properly processed by the body. It is also worth slightly reducing the level of fluid consumed, but not limiting it too much.
• To properly introduce sleep, it is worth periodically reducing the length of daylight hours. To begin with, you need to gradually reduce the time the lamps turn on, slowly reducing these indicators to a minimum. After the daylight hours are shortened a little, you also need to gradually reduce the air temperature in the room. The temperature should not drop sharply enough, almost the same as it happens in nature. If an animal is subjected to a sharp drop in temperature, this can be fraught with various colds for the reptile.
• It is imperative to prepare a box for wintering. This box should not be too large; this is due to the fact that turtles are not active during the wintering period. The bottom of the container should be covered with natural bedding, then the reptile should be placed there and sprinkled with leaves or sawdust on top. The substrate must be constantly moistened, but it should not become completely wet.
• The container with the pet should be kept in a cool place during wintering, but the possibility of drafts should be completely excluded.
• In order to bring an animal out of hibernation, it is worth performing all of the above actions, only in the reverse order. It is worth regularly taking warm baths and saturating your pet’s body with useful substances.

If all the rules are strictly followed, then the turtle in most cases comes to its senses after five days and begins to lead its usual way of life. If, however, complete recovery does not occur during this time, then you should seek help from a veterinarian.

As for the natural conditions of wintering, in order to understand how turtles winter in a pond, it is worth paying attention to the fact that as soon as an animal determines for itself that wintering time is approaching, it itself begins to prepare for it. The turtle becomes passive, begins to dig the ground, and practically does not eat

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the usual wintering regime lasts from eight to ten weeks for smaller individuals and, accordingly, twelve for larger ones. It is worth organizing wintering with the expectation that the animal should wake up no earlier than February, this is necessary because it is at this time that the length of daylight hours begins to increase

In order to be sure that everything is going well, the animal’s condition should be checked every month. However, it is worth excluding various mechanical damage to the turtle.

However, it is worth noting that if the animal begins to show activity during the wintering process, then it is urgent to stop the reptile’s sleep. This is a mandatory condition, since repeated introduction to sleep can have a detrimental effect on the animal’s condition.

A guide to wintering Central Asian turtles at home

Introduction

In this manual, I would like to reflect all the most key questions that owners of Central Asian tortoises have regarding the so-called hibernation. I’ll say right away that calling this process “hibernation” is not entirely correct, since this term is more applicable to warm-blooded animals, such as bears, badgers, rodents, etc. For turtles it is more correct to say wintering, hibernation, resting state, latent state, but not hibernation.

This manual was written thanks to the observations of foreign keepers, our compatriots, herpetologists, who will be mentioned later, as well as my modest experience. I myself have kept Testudo horsfieldii for 8 years. At the time of writing this article, this is my first wintering. Having been imbued with this question, thoroughly prepared, read a lot of sources, felt firsthand all the difficulty and responsibility and was horrified by the stories about “hibernating” under the radiator and on the balcony, I decided that the more people learn about the correctness of wintering, the more will remain alive and healthy turtles.

All information is written only for experienced owners who have decided to take such a responsible step. Wintering helps to improve the well-being of animals, normalizes the functioning of the thyroid gland and reproductive system, but if carried out improperly, it can cause significant harm to the health of animals, including death. For most turtles kept at home, wintering is completely unnecessary.

Let me note right away that it is convenient to winter at home from the end of the year to March-April of the next year. In winter it’s already cold and there will be no problems with heat in the apartment; you can even lower the temperature by opening the windows. And at the beginning of March, you can already find the very first fresh herbs (of course, it depends on the region of residence), then the heating is turned off, and the humidity in the apartments rises, daylight hours increase, which imitates natural conditions.

This manual is not purely scientific, it is written in the most understandable language for informational purposes, so here you will not see many terms, as well as detailed descriptions of biochemical processes. If you have any doubts regarding the health of the turtle, its readiness for wintering, or difficulties encountered when leaving it, immediately contact a trusted herpetologist with extensive experience! I hope and will be glad if this information will help make turtles living at home at least a little safer and save someone’s life.

1. Preparing the turtles

Before wintering, you need to make sure that your turtle is healthy enough for this. The excellent condition of the turtle is the key to success in this difficult task.

First, your pet must have a sufficient supply of fat, moisture and vitamins. Therefore, in advance, from early to mid-autumn (to put the turtle down by the end of the year), increase the feeding of the turtle. It should be varied and rich. You can give vitamin supplements, such as, for example, JBL TerraVit Pulver, increase the total proportion of fruits and vegetables by 5% of the norm, or leave it the same, but offer herbs every day, more calcium. Be careful not to overfeed! The existing fat and moisture in the body is a reserve, due to which the turtle lives in a state of hibernation (and this can last up to 6 months, at home - up to 4). When nutrient reserves run out, the body begins to consume the fat contained in the muscles and internal organs, which inevitably leads to the death of the animal or to dangerous diseases.

Normally, a turtle loses about 4% of its mass during the wintering period. There is a way to determine whether a turtle has sufficient mass for its size. This is the so-called “Jackson curve” or Jackson graph, which can often be seen in various publications and articles on similar topics. The problem is that the "curve" was calculated for Testudo hermanni (Balkan tortoise) and Testudo graeca (Mediterranean tortoise) and does not apply to the Central Asian tortoise. Thanks to statistics and data obtained by such famous and wonderful herpetologists as A.T. Bozhansky, V.E. Frolov, and processed by A.V. Kuznetsov, managed to clarify the formula for Testudo horsfieldii. It can be described as m=0.3*L»3, where m is the mass of the turtle in grams, L is the length of the turtle’s shell in centimeters, 0.3 is the correction factor. That is, if the length of your turtle’s shell is 15 cm, then its mass should be approximately equal to m = 0.3 * 15 * 15 * 15 = 1012.5 g. Naturally, there may be minor deviations, especially in turtles with slight manifestations of rickets, i.e. because the length of the shell does not correspond to the height (severely rickety turtles should not be wintered). With the same shell length, a turtle that has been exposed to rickets will weigh less than a turtle with the correct shell. In general, the graph corresponding to the above formula will give you some objective representation (see Figure 1).

If you have a female, then the situation becomes a little more complicated. You need to be sure that there are no eggs in it. Pregnant females should not be placed for the winter, as stagnation of eggs may occur and the turtle may die. This also greatly affects its mass, i.e. your calculation using the formula will be erroneous.

Secondly, your turtle must not have any diseases. If you have such an opportunity, then it is best to take the animal to a herpetologist to take tests for vitamins, the presence of parasites, take an x-ray (check the females for the presence of eggs) and assess the state of health in general. Assessing the health status of a turtle yourself, at your own peril and risk, is only possible if you are sure that you kept the animal correctly and provided it with the proper amount of vitamins and calcium all year round. In this article I do not describe each disease in detail. It is necessary to pay attention to the following points:

— white urates should be periodically excreted; - feces and urine should not have signs of pathologies (green or red color, strong unpleasant odor, constant liquid consistency of feces, the presence of parasites); — condition of the eyes (there should be no swelling, inflammation, discharge, film, eyes should not be sunken); - the turtle should not have any discharge from the mouth or nose in the form of blood or mucus; — absence of necrotizing stomatitis and herpes virus infection; — condition of the skin (it should not peel off in layers, have damage, scabs, ulcers); — absence of fungal diseases; - absence of abscesses, swelling, necrosis, otherwise your turtle may at least lose a limb, or at most die. Pay special attention to the legs, cloaca, eardrums, carefully check the shell for cracks.

If you keep different-sex individuals together, it is necessary to separate the males and females in advance to avoid unwanted mating and damage caused by the male during courtship.

2. Arranging a place for wintering

So, you have assessed the health status of your pets and are confident in your abilities and knowledge. Now you need to completely prepare the place for wintering. I’ll immediately draw your attention to the temperature for hibernation. Many sources write that the optimal temperature is +6...+12 C (average +8 C). Now, this is a fallacy. The Central Asian tortoise is a fairly cold-resistant species. Temperatures should be in the range of +4…+6 C (ideally +5 C). As the temperature approaches +1, the turtle begins to become active and may come out of its dormant state. In this case, the turtle must be immediately removed from the wintering quarters. Under no circumstances should the temperature drop to 0 C or below! The wintering place should be such as to ensure a stable temperature throughout the entire period (2-4 months).

Based on the above, you can immediately forget about such popular places for hibernation among most ordinary people as a balcony, sofa, under a radiator, cellar, basement, garage, barn. On the one hand, a good basement of a private house or a technical structure in some way could be suitable (in a properly equipped underground cellar, even in summer +80 C). But the fact is that in winter the temperature can drop significantly lower, even to negative values.

“What about in nature?” - you ask. In nature, turtles burrow to a depth of up to a meter, sometimes deeper. And even in such warm countries as Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, etc., there are also severe frosts and warming in winter. The ground sometimes freezes much deeper, and the turtles inevitably die.

Therefore, the ideal place for wintering at home is either a refrigerator or special incubators. The refrigerator must be separate, not for storing food, and without a freezer. Models and volume depend on the number of turtles. The turtle itself should, in addition, be in a wintering box, so it is better to take it with a reserve in volume. Be sure to pay attention to the noise level of the refrigerator indicated in dB! The lower it is, the better. Models from Daewoo, Indesit, Liebherr and others with a volume from 80 to 150 liters, energy class A+ and a noise level of up to 39 dB are well suited for these purposes (see Figure 2).

Do not use wine cabinets for wintering (see Figure 3). They look tempting, have a transparent glass lid, but the noise level is higher, they do not provide the proper temperatures, and in addition, large-volume models are unreasonably expensive for our purposes.

The dimensions of the container should be approximately such that there is at least 5 cm from the edges of the turtle shell to the walls. Vermiculite or a mixture of vermiculite, sand and peat can be used as a substrate. This design, firstly, allows you to maintain humidity, and secondly, serves for thermal stabilization. According to the laws of physics, larger objects cool and heat up more slowly, so if any changes occur, this will save turtles from sudden temperature changes, especially small individuals that are more sensitive to such changes.

I used the Exo Terra Reptile incubator (see Figure 5). The hibernating box in which the turtle is placed is a container with a moistened substrate (see Figure 4). The turtle is buried in it and covered with leaves or sphagnum moss on top, which are then moistened as needed.

Let's take a closer look at both options and consider all the pros and cons.

Do not forget that turtles in a state of hibernation, although slowly, breathe. Therefore, there must be air exchange. From this point of view, the refrigerator has a disadvantage: there is no air circulation in it. If you choose this method, then every 2-3 days you need to open the refrigerator slightly (a gap of no more than 5 mm) for ventilation for about 5 minutes to get rid of carbon dioxide and replenish oxygen reserves. Or you can equip an air exchange system. To do this, you need to make two small holes at a distance from each other in the refrigerator door seal. Leave one open, and insert into the second a tube coming from an air compressor or pump intended for an aquarium. The compressor does not have to be high power, 200 l/h will be enough. The incubator provides ventilation.

A necessary condition for successful wintering is a stable temperature throughout its entire duration. When the temperature approaches +10 C, the awakening process begins. At a temperature of about 0 C, the processes of tissue death begin. Even if the turtle survives exposure to low temperatures, damage to the retina and internal organs and death of the limbs are possible.

The incubator maintains temperature based on the Peletier principle (thermoelectric converters are used), which makes it possible to operate stably within certain limits both at temperatures below and above the temperature control point. From my observations, I will say that in order to maintain a temperature of +5 C, the ambient temperature should not be higher than +18 C, otherwise the incubator will not cope with its task. The refrigerator is less stable in this regard. Firstly, its back wall is much colder, so place wintering containers strictly in the center of the shelf. Secondly, the volume of the refrigerator is much larger, which, again according to the laws of physics, leads to sharper temperature changes. Therefore, the free space must be filled with something to increase the mass. For example, you can put closed containers of water. There is such a very important point as turning off the electricity. Refrigerators without power can maintain temperature for quite a long time as long as they are hermetically sealed. The incubator, based on my measurements, when the power is turned off, approximately every 10 minutes increases the temperature by 2 C. That is. within half an hour the temperature will approach +10 C.

But the fact is that the incubator has less power than the refrigerator, which makes it possible to extend its operating time using a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). The incubator also has the ability to be powered from a DC mains voltage of +12 V. As a matter of fact, that’s exactly what I did: the incubator is powered through a UPS (see Fig. 6). I didn’t notice any power outages, but I decided to play it safe. I advise you to approach this issue very carefully!

Many UPSs have a sound notification function when switching to backup mode, so you need to look for a model either with this function disabled or without it at all. If your skills allow, you can open the UPS and remove the piezoelectric emitter that makes the sound. The fact is that the signal is quite loud, which can lead to unwanted awakening. To monitor temperatures, regardless of the presence of built-in indicators, be sure to install an electronic thermometer with a remote sensor. The wire from the sensor allows you to tightly close the door of both the refrigerator and the incubator.

A significant disadvantage of the incubator is its volume. I wintered 4 turtles in it at the same time. To be honest, it is highly desirable to have more space.

The advantages of the incubator also include:

— the presence of a transparent door allows you to observe the ongoing process. It is recommended to do this in dim lighting; the rest of the time the door must be closed with a curtain;

— low noise level during operation;

— the ability to smoothly change temperatures;

- multifunctionality: after wintering it can be used for its intended purpose - for incubating eggs. The cost of the incubator fluctuates around 20 thousand rubles. A high-quality refrigerator model costs about the same, although you can find cheaper options. For an incubator you need to purchase a UPS, and for a refrigerator you will have to buy an air compressor.

It is extremely important to choose the right location where you install the system. There should be no heating radiators, noise or vibration sources nearby. Bright light is also unacceptable. So, if you play music at home, do renovations, or just like to watch popular blockbusters on DVD loudly, you will have to forget about all this during the winter.

3. Immersion in wintering

To introduce a turtle into hibernation, it is necessary to gradually reduce the temperature in the terrarium and simulate a shortening of daylight hours by changing the operating schedule of the lamps. Before temperatures begin to drop, turtles must completely empty their gastrointestinal tract. The temperatures under the lamp and the background temperature can be reduced by a couple of degrees, but not lower, so that the leftover food is completely digested. To get the turtles to bed by the end of the year, they stop feeding them from the end of November or the beginning of December. It is also necessary to remove from the terrarium absolutely everything that the turtle can eat, down to the last blade of grass, all hay, all food debris, shelter if it is made of hay. The period of hunger strike for young turtles can be up to 2-3 weeks, for older ones up to 3-4. For example, my female with a shell size of 16 cm only after 3.5 weeks completely stopped having any fecal discharge when bathing. During this period, turtles are bathed more often than usual (up to 3-4 times a week); a bowl of water is placed in the terrarium, which should always be fresh and clean. Try to touch them as little as possible, protect them from any stress, so that there is no urination - it is necessary to avoid loss of moisture. At this stage, it is important that the turtle takes in a sufficient amount of fluid, otherwise the animal may die from dehydration during wintering. It is worth noting that if you are going to put down several turtles at once, especially those of different ages, then you will encounter the following difficulty.

The smaller ones will empty faster, and they will have to wait for the others, since everyone must undergo a gradual decrease in temperature. Also, during the fasting period, begin to reduce the length of daylight hours. Calculate so that during these 3 weeks the daylight hours are reduced to 8 hours, i.e., the lamps turn on at 9 am and turn off at 5 pm. Accordingly, the rest of the time it should be dark, so either keep the terrarium in a dark room or cover it with a thick cloth. After the gastrointestinal tract has completely emptied, begin lowering the temperature. In the corner of the terrarium where turtles usually hide, it is advisable to increase the layer of soil, add vermiculite and slightly increase the humidity. Turtles have an instinct when winter approaches to look for looser and wetter places to burrow. This way the turtle will be able to better adapt to further hibernation and protect itself from dehydration. Lower the temperature by 2 degrees every two days. Try to bring it to 16 degrees, then put it in a refrigerator or incubator, the temperature in which at this moment should be +16 C. Protect the turtles from drafts! Next, in the chamber, continue to lower the temperature by 2 degrees every 2 days, and so on until +5 C. That is, if you started the process of a smooth decrease from 22 degrees, then you should reach 5 degrees in 16-18 days. As temperatures drop, the turtle's activity will gradually decrease. This is fine.

4. Hibernation process

The duration of wintering at home for adult turtles is up to 4 months. For young people, it is worth limiting it to two months. Another difficulty here is that you may have individuals of different ages. If you have organized everything correctly, you can winterize all turtles for 3 months. I decided that for the first time it was not worth keeping for more than 2 months (wintering was from the beginning of January to the end of February). Many sources advise that turtles should be weighed periodically to monitor weight loss. I don't recommend you do this for the following reasons. Firstly, such information comes from the times when turtles were placed in basements. That is, when taking measurements, you yourself would be at the background temperature. In our case, you will have to take the container with the turtle from +5 C to +20 C to take measurements. This can cause the awakening process and lead to colds. Secondly, you shouldn’t disturb the turtle again, because... excessive shaking can lead to urination, i.e. loss of moisture reserves. This is why you carried out such a painstaking, correct and responsible preparation process so that the turtle did not lose weight. If, nevertheless, this question worries you or is simply interesting from a scientific point of view, then there is only one safe solution. You can take an unwanted electronic kitchen scale and move the controls and display out of it. Place the container inside the refrigerator on the scale and you can continuously take measurements. Also in some sources you can find information that if you notice a turtle urinating during wintering, then it is necessary to conduct a hydration session (give the turtles a bath) to avoid dehydration. I think this is extremely unacceptable.

5. Withdrawal from wintering

Awakening turtles is almost completely the opposite process of immersing themselves in winter. The temperature should be raised a couple of degrees every day. When the turtles begin to show strong activity, you can smoothly equalize the temperature in the chamber to room temperature and remove the turtles. For example, my turtles began to show strong activity at +18 degrees. I reached this temperature from +5 degrees within 6-7 days, 2 degrees a day (in the morning and evening by 1 degree). The next day I increased the temperature by 1 degree every half hour. During a hydration session, you will raise your temperature and begin the awakening process. Remember: a turtle that has woken up cannot be returned to its wintering quarters! As the temperature approaches +10 C, glycogen stored in the liver may begin to enter the blood, and the turtle will begin to wake up.

It is necessary to periodically look into the container to make sure that the turtles are not active. It was noted above that the incubator is better in this regard. You can look through the glass door every other day, but without a bright flashlight. If in the refrigerator, then about once every 1-2 weeks. Only very quickly to avoid temperature spikes. The activity of turtles means constant digging in the substrate, knocking on the walls of the container. In this case, the turtle will have to be returned to normal conditions. Small movements are acceptable. If the volume of the container allows, the turtle may, sensing any minor changes in temperature or humidity, try to burrow deeper or crawl to the side.

Try to ensure that there are no power outages as often as possible. As I wrote earlier, avoid loud noise and vibrations throughout the wintering process. If your apartment is too dry in winter (humidity is about 30%), then also try to monitor the humidity in the chamber. It should be from 40% to 60%, not higher. Do not allow water to come into direct contact with the turtle's shell when moistening the substrate. The turtle will instinctively urinate. degrees, I began to take them out of the chamber one by one and bathe them in warm water, then immediately released them into the terrarium under the lamps. After hibernation, turtles are very weak, so it is necessary to carefully monitor temperatures and the absence of drafts. When removing the turtle from the chamber, you should wrap it in a towel and, in this form, bring it to a container with pre-filled water. Before bathing, you should weigh her and make sure that she has not lost much weight. While swimming, carefully inspect turtles for diseases.

Pay special attention to the shell and eyes. The eyes should not be swollen, the pupil should not be light or cloudy. There should be no traces of fungus or necrosis on the shell and skin (common phenomena after wintering). There should also be no signs of renal failure or any suspicious discharge. Bathing should take at least 40 minutes, preferably an hour. At the same time, salts should come out (three of my turtles came out with salts during the first bath, and the fourth one the next day). After the baths, immediately place the turtles under the switched on lamps (incandescent and ultraviolet, or combined metal halide).

6. Adaptation of turtles

At this stage, the most important things for turtles are maintaining temperatures, bright light, a high proportion of ultraviolet radiation and drinking. After wintering, the body of turtles is severely dehydrated, so first of all it is necessary to drink and only then feed. For the first week, you need to bathe turtles every day for half an hour. Offer your turtle to drink warm water every day. If she refuses, you can lure her to a container of water and sprinkle a little on her head. On the third day you can offer food. Better juicy, rich in vitamins, calcium and carbohydrates. For example, for the first time I fed him banana mixed with herbs, calcium and vitamin supplements from JBL. The next feeding included a mixture rich in vitamin A - carrots, pumpkin and herbs. Within a week, the activity of the three turtles was completely restored, and they were transferred to their usual diet, consisting of herbs. The fourth turtle (male) remained slightly lethargic and had slightly suspicious eyes and skin. I had to give him an injection of Eleovit.

After the first injection, my activity and health improved. At the time of finishing the manual, the male was placed with the rest of the turtles, and their group already had regular, proper nutrition, daily mating, and biological rhythms corresponded to daylight hours. In general, restoration of appetite and activity may take up to a week. Lethargic and sleepy behavior is normal at first. After a week, if activity has not improved and you have not seen any external signs of health problems, then you can administer a glucose solution. Dilute 2 teaspoons of glucose in 250 ml of water and give 10-20 ml per day. You can do this by holding the animal by the neck, opening its mouth and carefully injecting the solution with a thin syringe (without a needle) directly into the throat. If possible, it is better to make a fresh solution every day. You should not carry out this procedure for more than 5 days. If the turtle's condition has not returned to normal, contact a herpetologist immediately!

Conclusion

So, let's summarize. Wintering at home is a very important undertaking that requires a serious approach and a good theoretical basis. But when carried out correctly, this process bears fruit. The functioning of the glands is normalized, the condition of the skin improves, and activity increases. All this increases the length and improves the quality of life of your pet. Finally, I want to warn you about two important things. First, plan so that when you leave the winter hut you will be at home and have a lot of free time so that you can bathe the turtles every day and monitor their condition. Secondly, if you keep several turtles of different sexes, you should be on guard, since due to increased activity after adaptation, there may be severe aggression. We'll have to seat them.

I hope this guide will answer some of your questions and help you do everything right. Despite all the difficulties, wintering is a very interesting process that will help you see your pets from a different perspective and get to know them even more deeply, teach you to respect their biological rhythms and help turtles feel closer to nature.

I wish you and your turtles good luck!

Author: Konyukhov Andrey

Hibernation of red-eared turtles

As mentioned above, this type of amphibian can fall into suspended animation - a state of reduced activity. Usually this period occurs during the cold season and is a protective reaction of the animal’s body to a decrease in temperature and a decrease in the amount of available food.

How does a red-eared turtle sleep at home? Considering the optimal conditions for keeping the amphibian and the lack of the need to get its own food, domestic red eared cats may not go into suspended animation at all. But since instincts can work at the subconscious level, in winter the turtle may be more lethargic and suffer from poor appetite.

If you notice this behavior in your pet, it is best to take him to the vet, as it may be caused by an illness. How long does a red-eared slider sleep? Typically, the period of suspended animation lasts one to three months, but at home it can be much shorter.

Is hibernation artificially induced in red-eared turtles? Yes, you can deliberately put an animal into a state of suspended animation. To do this, simply lower the temperature and reduce the lighting in the aquarium. However, it is best to consult with your veterinarian about the need for artificial hibernation before taking any action.

So, you have acquired an exotic beauty - a red-eared aquatic turtle. How do you know if red-eared turtles are hibernating? You notice that your pet has begun to behave strangely: yawning, not showing its former activity, and being in a kind of stupor for a long time. This is not a reason for premature excitement. The reptile simply goes into seasonal hibernation. Hibernation of red-eared turtles at home is common, although not always desirable. Remember! Hibernating turtles at home is not necessary for the reptile! This condition is caused by climate change in its natural habitat, and at home it can have a detrimental effect on your pet.

There are also individuals whose natural instinct manifests itself in any microclimate in the house. This is for the better, because such individuals reproduce better. In winter and autumn, daylight hours are significantly reduced, and not only reptiles, but also people lack natural light. If you decide to breed reptiles or simply want to put your pet to hibernation, you need to do this from about November to February, even if the pet does not show obvious signs of sleep.

Diseases and prevention

The land turtle rarely gets sick. Improper living conditions and poor diet can lead to the appearance of some pathologies.

The most common diseases found in these pets are:

Rickets

This disease develops due to a lack of vitamin D and ultraviolet rays. It manifests itself in softening and deformation of the carapace and plastron.

In the early stages, pathology can be dealt with by revising the diet and installing an ultraviolet lamp in the terrarium.

It is much easier to prevent the disease. To do this, you need to take your pet for a walk under the warm rays of the sun. And adjust your diet so that it contains enough calcium and vitamins.

Eye diseases

If your tortoise's eyes begin to water and swell, and the eyelids stick together and are difficult to open, then most likely there is a lack of vitamin A in the diet.

It is necessary to prepare a warm solution of chamomile and wash your pet’s eyes several times a day using a sterile cotton swab. Albucid and Sofradex eye drops are also used. Your veterinarian will likely prescribe multivitamin injections.

Nutrition needs to be reviewed and the diet adjusted.

Helminthiasis

If your pet begins to suffer from diarrhea or constipation, and whitish moving dots are visible in the excrement, then an infection with internal parasites has occurred.

In this case, you should contact a veterinary clinic to prescribe treatment. And as a preventative measure, it is advisable to deworm your pet once every three months.

For turtles, the anthelmintic Wolbazen (Albendazole) is most often used.

acute respiratory infections, pneumonia

The first signs of colds in turtles are pale mucous membranes. Then difficulty breathing, runny nose, drool with white foam, and wheezing appear.

Pneumonia rarely develops in land species; aquatic turtles are more prone to it.

At the slightest sign of a cold, you should contact your veterinarian and begin antibacterial therapy. Antibiotic injections are usually prescribed.

Intestinal obstruction

This problem can arise if the pet has eaten some inedible objects, pieces of rubber, or polyethylene.

A symptom of pathology is stool irregularity. You should try sun and warm water baths; in extreme cases, an enema with chamomile decoction will help.

Infection with external parasites

If small moving dots are found on the turtle's body, then the pet has lice or fleas.

For treatment, a 5% solution of Karbofos is applied to the skin of the reptile and after a while it is washed off with a 0.2% solution of Neguvon.

How to cope with the death of a pet

No matter how much we want it, nothing on this planet lasts forever.

Birth and death are natural processes and should not be feared. The death of a pet is a big loss, but you have to accept it in order to move on with your life.

Here are some tips for coping with loss:

• Give vent to your emotions, cry. Tell your family and friends about your problem. Talk about this as much as necessary, your loved ones will understand you.
• Distract yourself from something that makes you happy. Play sports, go to a concert or theater, draw, do renovations, or just spend a couple of days lying on the couch watching your favorite films and TV series.
• See a psychologist if necessary. There's nothing to be ashamed of.
• Wait. Time cures. Everything passes, it's true.

A new pet can help you overcome the pain of the death of your previous one.

Don't despair if an accident happens to your pet. Try to live through the period of acceptance and subsequent adaptation to the maximum benefit. Create and develop. Don't get discouraged, go out with friends, spend time in pleasant company. Later, if you have the strength and desire, you can think about sheltering an animal in need of a roof over your head at home.

Is it possible to sleep in a refrigerator?

Biologists recommend placing turtles in the refrigerator during hibernation, because it is easy to maintain the same temperature. First, the turtle is placed in a cardboard box, which is not much larger in size than the animal, the voids are filled with torn paper, and placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of +12 degrees. The temperature is reduced every day by 1 degree until it reaches +5.

To overwinter in the refrigerator, the turtle can be buried in a substrate of turf soil, sand and fine gravel. The layer of mixture above the turtle should be within 8-9 cm, but to prevent it from suffocating, the refrigerator door must be opened for 10-15 minutes every 2 days.

Pleasant awakening

Coming out of hibernation is an important moment in the life of a turtle, and it needs help to cope with this task. How to bring a turtle out of hibernation? All autumn reserves are used up, the turtle wakes up weak, exhausted and vulnerable to infections. At this moment, she needs care and quality nutrition more than ever.

After the turtle comes out of hibernation, it is warmed with a lamp or fan heater, then a “bath day” is arranged - in a small container with warm water. The turtle should bathe for about 10 minutes, this will restore the water balance in its body.

After hibernation, water procedures must be repeated every day for a week. They can be stopped when the reptile urinates for the first time. At first, her urine will be thick and dark yellow, but gradually the toxins will come out and it will become light in color again.

Now you can “sit down at the table,” of course, if its appetite has awakened along with the turtle. At first, the reptile may refuse food, this is normal, gradually everything will recover.

What signs can be used to determine that a turtle has safely emerged from hibernation? A healthy reptile's tongue will be pink or orange, without a coating. If it is bright red, the animal may be infected with something. The eyes should be clear and clean, also without plaque or discharge.

Turtles sleeping and not sleeping

When buying a turtle to keep at home, you need to find out as much information as possible about it - what does it eat, does it hibernate? If your turtle does without rest in the wild, then you shouldn’t force it to sleep at home, like a naughty child. And if you can’t do without hibernation, you need to try to create all the conditions for this. And then help her come out of hibernation and return to life.

In nature, the following types of turtles hibernate: Central Asian, Mediterranean, Herman's tortoise. Living at home, these turtles can also fall into winter sleep, although this does not always happen.

All types of tropical tortoises, including the Egyptian, Tunisian, Panther, Indian, and African tortoises, as well as the kinix tortoise, do without hibernation. The warm climate and abundance of food help reptiles survive without rest. Biologists warn that if you try to hibernate turtles that do not need wintering, they may die.

Some species, such as red-eared turtles, may or may not sleep in winter, depending on the climate and the area in which they live. As a rule, the red-eared turtle lives in fresh water. If it freezes for the winter, the turtle goes to winter quarters and sleeps peacefully until spring. If the climate is warm and the reservoir is non-freezing, the turtle may not sleep all winter.

At home, hibernation of the red-eared turtle is not a necessary phenomenon. If she likes everything, has enough food and warmth, she can survive the winter without rest. Sometimes individuals that have recently been removed from natural conditions can go into hibernation and continue to live according to the laws of nature. Over time, this goes away for some individuals.

Hibernation is also necessary for the red-eared turtle if they plan to get offspring from it next year.

Reproduction

Red-eared turtles become sexually mature at different times. If they live in a home environment, then from the age of four, males become ready for fertilization, while females at the age of only 5 or 6 years can bear offspring. Red-eared turtles become mature in the wild only at 8 years of age. The breeding season begins in March for turtles in natural conditions. As pets, they can reproduce all year round. The mating season marks the male, who begins to attract the female. He shows himself to the female by constantly swimming nearby and showing off his fast legs. The female lays no more than 10 eggs, which in size do not exceed 4 centimeters. Masonry must take place in a specially equipped place. If she is in captivity, she needs to organize a special space.

In the wild, the female lays her eggs in a small hole on land, which she moistens with water. Incubation can last up to 150 days. In order for females to be born, the temperature of the nest must be above 30 degrees Celsius, and if the temperature is below 27, males appear. While pregnant, the female begins to change her behavior. As a rule, she begins to worry, tries to dig with her hind limbs and tries to swim out of the aquarium. Very often during pregnancy, females swim to land.

How to prepare a turtle for hibernation in captivity?

Important: Never try to hibernate a turtle if it has recently eaten. As autumn approaches, turtles eat less and less - this is a natural process

The functioning of the animal's digestive system mainly depends on air temperature. When biological processes slow down, the body needs 2-4 weeks for the last food eaten to completely pass through the digestive tract. Therefore, it is best not to attempt to hibernate a tortoise if there is a possibility that there may be undigested food left in the intestines. This is very dangerous: the gases released can cause potentially fatal colic. To properly prepare your turtle for hibernation, give it a period of fasting that should last at least three weeks. It should be noted here that the exact time depends on the size of the reptile (small turtles need less time for the hunger period, large ones need more). During this period, the animal should be kept at a temperature slightly lower than normal. It is also necessary to gradually reduce the lighting level

As autumn approaches, turtles eat less and less - this is a natural process. The functioning of the animal's digestive system mainly depends on air temperature. When biological processes slow down, the body needs 2-4 weeks for the last food eaten to completely pass through the digestive tract. Therefore, it is best not to attempt to hibernate a tortoise if there is a possibility that there may be undigested food left in the intestines. This is very dangerous: the gases released can cause potentially fatal colic. To properly prepare your turtle for hibernation, give it a period of fasting that should last at least three weeks. It should be noted here that the exact time depends on the size of the reptile (small turtles need less time for the hunger period, large ones need more). During this period, the animal should be kept at a temperature slightly lower than normal. It is also necessary to gradually reduce the lighting level.

Particular care should be taken to monitor the turtle's health during the period immediately preceding hibernation. If you suspect that your turtle is unwell, do not try to hibernate it under any circumstances. This may result in the death of the animal. The same applies to turtles that weigh below normal. If you are not sure of the complete health of the turtle, it is recommended that it overwinter in a warm, dry and ventilated terrarium. It is also undesirable to hibernate animals that you have recently acquired.

Wintering in the refrigerator

Another alternative to a suitable cool room for successful wintering is the use of a refrigerator. In this case, the following factors must be taken into account. First, the refrigerator must be large enough for the drawer to remain freely in it for a long time. And secondly, it should not be used for storing food. However, you should keep in mind that the back wall of the refrigerator is usually colder than the front, so the box with the turtle should not be placed close to the walls. In addition, once a day, you need to open the refrigerator for a while, thus maintaining natural air circulation

The temperature should be kept constantly at +4 – +7C. IMPORTANT!

1. After waking up, the turtle must be bathed in water, the temperature of which should be approximately 24 - 26 C. In this case, the turtle must drink a lot. After this, you should move the animal into a terrarium or a special box and turn on the lighting.

Swamp turtles prefer ponds with stagnant water, where they have a large supply of food, as well as all the conditions for hibernation. Winter cold could kill a turtle unable to maintain its body temperature, but natural self-preservation mechanisms allow turtles to spend all the cold months underwater.

How do turtles sleep?

Aquatic turtles (red-eared, marsh) can sleep both on land and under water. Sleep can also catch them during a walk, when the owner releases the animal from the aquarium. Therefore, you need to do this only for a few hours and periodically monitor your pet so that it does not get lost or get stuck in hard-to-reach places.

Most often, domestic red-eared turtles sleep on land. They climb onto the island, close their eyes, calm down and fall asleep. Some animals retract their head and paws into their shell, while others do not. They leave their head extended and simply close their eyes. This happens because they get used to a calm environment, the absence of predators and competitors.

However, the red-eared turtle can also sleep in water. A sufficient amount of air accumulates in her lungs, the supply of which lasts for several hours. The animal sleeps in the water, completely submerged there, or stands on its hind legs on the bottom of the aquarium, and rests its front legs on an island or other object. The pet can spend several hours in a row in this position.

How long does the red ear live and where does it live?

This type of turtle can rightfully be considered a long-liver. In favorable conditions, life expectancy is 40 years. An interesting fact is that the red-eared turtle has a high level of intelligence, not typical of other reptiles. These animals are very sensitive to vibrations and their behavior can warn of an impending earthquake or storm. When choosing food, the red-eared turtle first focuses on the color, and only then on the smell and taste of the object.

These reptiles are widespread in nature. They can be found in their natural environment in Central and South America, Israel, South Africa, Spain and even Great Britain. But in Australia, this species is officially recognized as a pest, since it destroys local endemics. The red ear lives in shallow ponds and lakes, and in other bodies of water with swampy shores.

Keeping this exotic animal turns out to be much more difficult than initially thought. These turtles spend most of their time in the water, although they need land. For one adult, an aquaterrarium with a volume of 120-150 liters will be comfortable, while land should occupy no more than 25% of the total area. On the improvised bank, special soil or crushed stone should be poured, making a gentle rise. The turtle's shell must fit completely in the water so that the animal can easily roll over onto its back and back.

For this type of amphibian, the optimal temperature is 25-30 degrees Celsius. When the temperature drops to 20 degrees, hibernation may occur in red-eared turtles. The water in the aquarium is changed as needed, at least once a month. In order for the turtle to be healthy, it also needs to be provided with portioned irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp.

Rules of detention and causes of mortality

No matter how strange it may sound, the main cause of death of red-eared turtles is the breeders themselves. Today, many people have such pets. But unfortunately, novice breeders make a lot of mistakes that lead to death. This is all due to improper maintenance and care of pets. At home, many owners have turtles that are not able to live even 5 years.

Initially, you need to clearly know that turtles are cold-blooded. This means that their existence directly depends on the temperature and microclimate in their terrarium. Animals cannot independently regulate their body temperature, such as dogs or cats. The optimal temperature range for red-eared turtles is from 26 to 35 degrees. This is precisely the value found in natural conditions in ponds and other reptile habitats.

All this means that the temperature regime cannot be left to chance by breeders. The room in which the aquarium with the reptile is located should not be the main indicator for keeping it. After all, if the room is approximately 25 degrees, then the water temperature will be several degrees lower, and this is below the required norm.

When buying red-eared turtles, which live mostly in water, you should carefully approach the issue of maintenance and think through the conditions for this in advance. The reptile's home is a large aquarium with an island of land or a terrarium. For one individual, it will be enough to buy or make an aquarium of 200-250 liters, with 100 liters of volume in water. If there is a pair of reptiles, then the parameters will need to be multiplied in half.

The island itself with land must be located on approximately 3 parts of the entire bottom area. It is made from glass, stone or wood. It all depends on preferences or materials that are available to create with your own hands, in addition, the entrance to the island should be smooth, and all surfaces should be rough. To prevent the turtle from dying prematurely, it is created from natural materials or from those that are not toxic. You also need to additionally equip a ladder for entry.

It is also not allowed to use soil in an aquarium. And if it is used, then it should be twice as large as the reptile’s head. Turtles simply love to taste everything, as a result they can swallow any decorative element or small stones. The result may be suffocation or disruption of the gastrointestinal tract, which ultimately leads to death.

You should be no less careful when handling large elements of decoration. Although turtles are not always large, they are very strong and can break an aquarium with a stone or figurine.

Each island with land must be equipped with special ultraviolet lamps, at a height of approximately 30 cm. They are necessary to maintain the health of the turtle, as well as for the warming up and normal development of the pet. You will definitely need to install a heater in the aquarium. This is because the water must be within a certain temperature range.

All turtles are quite sloppy and create a lot of dirt around themselves. However, they love clean water. Therefore, breeders should buy an additional cleaning filter, which will have double the supply. In other words, if there is 100 liters of water in the aquarium, then the filter should be 200 liters and so on. When changing the water in the terrarium, you should only use settled water. It is prohibited to use water that has been passed through a household filter. Typically, this purification adds silver to the water to remove infections and bacteria. All this slowly poisons the turtles and, as a result, intoxication and failure of the animal’s internal organs begins. After this comes death.

What to do if the turtle falls asleep

Before hibernation, the turtle must eat well

Ideally, the turtle's body should be adequately prepared for hibernation. Because,

Before hibernation, the turtle should stop feeding, but not stop giving it water, give it a final bath (immersion in water) and then put it to sleep in a pre-prepared box. If you did not have time to do all this, however, you are sure that the animal will be able to survive the winter, you will need to place the sleeping turtle in a box, which you previously lined with peat or moss. During the winter, the inside surface of the box will need to be moistened. At the same time, in order for the turtle to sleep soundly and not be tormented by nightmares, during the first 2 weeks of its hibernation, you will have to reduce the temperature in the room where the box is located to 6-10 degrees above zero.

If you think that the turtle is not ready to sleep, then it is better to wake it up as quickly as possible.

Preparation

So, how do red-eared turtles hibernate at home? About 2 months before hibernation, switch your pet to an enhanced diet so that she can store as many nutrients as possible

This is important because during hibernation animals lose weight by almost 2 times. It is useful to give your turtle special nutritional supplements (they are sold at the pet supply store)

But a week before bedtime, the animal needs to stop feeding altogether.

In order for the red-eared turtle to hibernate, gradually reduce the air temperature of the pet to 10 degrees. You cannot sharply reduce the temperature, as this can cause the reptile to die from temperature shock. Just before hibernation, do not forget to bathe your pet; at the same time, it will cleanse the intestines.

The ideal temperature during sleep is from 1 to 6 degrees Celsius. This regime can be ensured by placing the animal, for example, in the basement. However, be careful. Hypothermia is fatal for red-eared turtles. It is also necessary to maintain optimal humidity conditions. It can be provided by moistened moss and leaves. This environment is well ventilated.

How to avoid wintering?

To prevent the turtle from hibernating, make sure that there are optimal temperature conditions for keeping it:

1. Water. The temperature should be 22°-28°. Any decrease will lead to a decrease in activity and a gradual slowdown of internal processes.
2. Land. The island is used by turtles for heating, so the temperature here can reach up to 32°.

The cause of hibernation can also be a lack of vitamins. Make sure there is enough ultraviolet light or get a vitamin shot at a veterinary clinic. This will prevent the turtle from hibernating due to lack of nutrients.

Due to the labor-intensive process and high risks, it is not recommended to put the reptile into hibernation. If in nature the process occurs naturally and its time is determined by biological rhythms, then at home the responsibility falls solely on the owner.

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Both laughter and sin: what you definitely shouldn’t do with a turtle

Photo: still from the movie “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles”

Under natural conditions, representatives of some species can live more than 150 years. In this regard, turtles are ahead of all vertebrates. The famous Madagascan Tui Malila was included in the Guinness Book of Records for her longevity - at the time of her death she was more than 190 years old. In captivity, medium-sized turtles live up to 30–60 years, but large ones can live up to 150. Experts attribute their longevity to a slow metabolism, like all cold-blooded turtles.

However, acquaintance with humanity is not always favorable for turtles. In the 18th century, turtles served as live canned food for sailors. The author of the work “Animal Life”, German zoologist Alfred Brehm, spoke about the relationship of sailors with turtles as follows:

“Captured turtles are usually turned over on their backs. There is no ceremony with them: they are simply put aside somewhere on the deck, a sail is stretched over them to protect them from the sun and they do not care about anything else, relying on their survivability. They are not given any food or drink.”

Today, turtle meat is used to make soup and stew, and the shell is used for decorative items and other trinkets.

Psychologist: where do people become cruel to animals?

Cruelty towards animals speaks of internal aggression. In fact, it has always been there: before in villages, if neighbors were arguing, one of them could calmly go and shoot the dog - however, in essence this is aggression towards the neighbor, and not towards the dog itself. In such cases, people simply project their anger onto animals.

Almost all animals depend on us, many of them get used to us - in this sense, a person acts as a manipulator, and some people enjoy the feeling of power over a weaker creature.

Personally, I am convinced that a person can be dangerous if he kills an animal not for the sake of eating it. Any living creature has a serious barrier to killing just like that. If a person shows unreasonable aggression towards animals, who knows what he might be capable of towards people.

Natalya Panfilova psychologist

Neighborhood with people is sometimes fraught with unintentional killing of turtles: accidentally crushing an animal under a sofa or dropping it from a height of human height is quite a classic outcome for this type of pet. The m24.ru correspondent has heard enough about various horrors and decided to introduce you to the most ridiculous of them.

Top 5 most ridiculous accidental deaths of pet turtles:

• Fifth place: eaten by a dog or cat. Not all pets can live under one roof. Cases of turtles being eaten or torn apart by dogs or cats are quite common. There are owners who manage to teach such diverse pets to live in peace and harmony, but this does not always happen;
• Fourth place: put it in the refrigerator. Maslova was not the only one who accidentally froze the poor animal. Knowledge about the wintering of turtles is widespread among lovers of these reptiles, but not everyone can use it correctly;
• Third place: a land turtle choked in a cup of cola. The owner simply decided to quench his pet's thirst by placing him upside down in a full cup;
• Second place: took it and dried it. One of the respondents told how he put a turtle on a radiator to make it warmer. Good intentions led the poor thing to hell - she turned into a mummy. Some experts associate such consequences with dehydration of the body and possible diseases, others argue that under or on the radiator the turtle simply overheats and dies, and drying out as such occurs after death;
• First place: unintentional soup. One guy really loved his turtle, which often sat on his shoulder. He also loved dumplings. While preparing the next broth, the turtle was just sitting on his shoulder, and suddenly he fell straight into the boiling water. She was boiled. Dinner did not take place.

Bringing a turtle out of hibernation

Even if the turtle begins to show activity ahead of schedule, begin to bring it out of hibernation. Smoothly raise the temperature to 18-20 degrees (1-2 degrees per day); within a week, the pet should be bathed in warm water. After wintering, the turtle is dehydrated, and during bathing it will absorb the required amount of moisture through its skin. For the first two weeks, she will seem exhausted and inactive; she will start feeding about a week after moving to her previous terrarium.

Animals do not tolerate sudden emergence from hibernation, so if unforeseen complications arise, you should immediately contact a veterinarian. It is worth remembering that only healthy animals can be sent to hibernate, otherwise there is a risk of death.

So, you have acquired an exotic beauty - a red-eared aquatic turtle. How do you know if red-eared turtles are hibernating? You notice that your pet has begun to behave strangely: yawning, not showing its former activity, and being in a kind of stupor for a long time. This is not a reason for premature excitement. The reptile simply goes into seasonal hibernation. Hibernation of red-eared turtles at home is common, although not always desirable. Remember! Hibernating turtles at home is not necessary for the reptile! This condition is caused by climate change in its natural habitat, and at home it can have a detrimental effect on your pet.

There are also individuals whose natural instinct manifests itself in any microclimate in the house. This is for the better, because such individuals reproduce better. In winter and autumn, daylight hours are significantly reduced, and not only reptiles, but also people lack natural light. If you decide to breed reptiles or simply want to put your pet to hibernation, you need to do this from about November to February, even if the pet does not show obvious signs of sleep.

What can pet turtles die from?

Turtles, even outside the wild, are long-lived.

The causes of death can be divided into two categories: those independent of the pet owner and those dependent.

Independent:

• The animal initially had weak immunity and/or a congenital disease.
• Poor conditions for breeding and keeping at the supplier, poor quality transportation, non-compliance with sanitary standards in the pet store.

Dependent:

• Poorly organized place for reptiles. These include: a small aquarium/terrarium, unsuitable soil, too low/high temperature, excessive/insufficient lighting, drafts in the room with the aquarium/terrarium.
• Poor diet. Turtles prefer a variety of plant foods. Her well-being can be harmed by foods such as: bread, eggs, seafood, meat, sausage, milk, cottage cheese, cheese. Feeding frequency has an impact. Young individuals are fed once a day, adults should be fed once every 2 to 3 days. The lack of vitamins also has a detrimental effect on the turtle's health.
• Lack of water treatments. If you do not bathe the animal once every 1 - 1.5 weeks, it can get sick and die.
• Frequent transportation. A turtle, like any other pet, is best kept alone and not subjected to unnecessary transportation. If this cannot be avoided, then this should be done as carefully as possible in a special container.

At home, with proper care, they can live up to 15 years.

Poor diet can kill your pet